38 EYE CARE
1400000 1200000 1000000 800000 600000 400000 200000 0
Control SSS 3
2.5 2
-50%*** -90%***
H202 100µM
Quercetin 10µM
Av.P. Av.P. 0.001% dm 0.005% dm -57%*** -89%*** Av.P. 0.01% dm Figure 7: Effect of the active ingredient on the production of ROS by
keratinocytes subjected to oxidative stress ($$$ p<0.001 vs. untreated reference; ***p<0.001 vs. H2O2 – One-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey test)
We recruited two panels for this study, one
for bags and the other dark circles. Both were healthy female subjects of all skin types with a dull complexion and Caucasian, phototype I to IV skin. The former panel of 23 were aged 44-70 (average 63±2) with bags under the eyes (score ≥2 on the Bazin scale), while the latter were 21 in total, aged 43-70 (average 61±2) with vascular dark circles under the eyes (score ≥1 on the Dermscan scale). Efficacy was evaluated for bag volume by
clinical scoring and for dark circle colour and complexion radiance by spectrocolorimeter. The procedure used was exactly the same as in the first clinical study. On several occasions, the placebo showed
significant results, which interfered with the demonstration of the efficacy of the active ingredients. In order to evaluate a better, neutral formula without designed effect, a clinical study exclusively dedicated to comparing several potential placebo formulas was started at the same time. Our discussion here will therefore only
focus on the results of the active ingredient. The active ingredient significantly reduces bag volume (-12.5%); the brightness L* (+4.9%), redness a* (-11.98%) and the ITA°
0.5 0
Control TGFB1 5ng/mL
Av.P. 0.005% dm
Figure 8: Collagen I & elastin gene expression in dermal fibroblasts (*p<0.05; **p<0.01 vs Control, ** p<0.01 vs. untreated reference – One-way Anovas followed by a
Dunnett test)
(+39.85%) of dark circles; and the brightness L* (+1.83%) and ITA° (+8.20%) of the complexion, corresponding to an improvement in radiance (Figure 9).
Conclusion The biological activity of the avocado polyphenols extract was demonstrated by various in vitro models, at extract concentrations between 0.0005% and 0.1% DM. These demonstrated the activity of avocado polyphenols on the main mechanisms involved in the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes: microcirculation, pigmentation, lipolysis, oxidative stress and dermal matrix. The efficacy of avocado polyphenols on
these parameters was confirmed clinically by independent studies. The active ingredient formulated at 3% led to a significant improvement in dark circle appearance compared to the placebo in volunteers with pigmentary dark circles. In a second study including volunteers
with vascular dark circles and bags under the eyes, the active ingredient formulated at 3% led to a significant improvement in the volume of the bags under the eyes, in dark circle
6.2 6
5.8 5.6 5.4 5.2 5
4.8 4.6
Placebo D0 Placebo D28 Figure 9: Effect of avocado polyphenols on dark circle colour PERSONAL CARE March 2022 S -9% S
-15% S
Av.P. D0
Av.P. D28
S
x1.64 vs placebo
colour and in complexion radiance. All of the results demonstrate the potential of avocado polyphenols to have an anti-fatigue effect on the eye area and complexion radiance.
1.5 1
+148%** +58%*
PC
References: 1. Mac-Mary et al. Identification of three key factors contributing to the aetiology of dark circles by clinical & instrumental assessments of the infraorbital region. Clin. Cosm. & Inv. Dermatol. 2019;12:919-929
2. Matsui et al. Physiological and lifestyle factors contributing to risk & severity of peri- orbital dark circles in the Brazilian population. An. Bras. Dermatol. 2015; 90(4):494-503
3. Park et al. Classification by causes of dark circles & appropriate evaluation method of dark circles. Skin Res. Tech. 2016;22:276-283
4. Oshima, Takiwaki. Evaluation of dark circles of the lower eyelid: Comparison between reflectance meters & image processing & involvement of dermal thickness in appearance. Skin Res. Tech. 2008;14:135-141
5. Friedmann, Goldman. Dark circles – etiology & management options. Clin. Plastic Surg. 2015;42:33-50
6. Roh, Chung. Infraorbital dark circles: definition, causes & treatment options. Dermatol. Surg. 2009;35:1163-1171
7. Freitag M, Cestari F. What causes dark circles under the eyes? J. Cos. Derm. 2007;6:211-215
8. Chavan et al. Fucus extract: Cosmetic treatment for under-eye dark circles. J. Cos. Sci. 2014;65:103-114
9. Goldberg et al. What causes eyelid bags? Analysis of 114 consecutive patients. Plast. Reconstr. Surg. 2005;115: 1395-1402
10. Epstein. Management of infraorbital dark circles: A significant cosmetic concern. Arch. Facial Plast. Surg. 1999;1:303-307
10. Harper et al. Effect of histamine and prostaglandin E2 on the microcirculation in the skin. Agents Actions. 1988;24(1-2):102-108
11. Kingston, Greaves. Actions of prostaglandin E2 metabolites on skin microcirculation. Agents Actions. 1985;16(1-2):13-14
12. Okabe et al. The release of leukotriene B4 from human skin in response to substance P: Evidence for the functional heterogeneity of human skin mast cells among individuals. Clin. Exp. Immunol. 2001;124:150-156
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ROS (Fluorescence intensity) Scorage
Collagen I (relative quantity)
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