30 EYE AREA CARE
■ Kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide increases the proliferation of HFDPC
■ Miquelianin: Promotes hair anchorage by reducing disassembly of hemidesmosomes
Kaempferol-3- O-glucuronide + Miquelianin
Other polyphenols Terhalose
Monosaccharides Other disaccharides
Phenolics Extraction Resulook
360-degree analysis
Other carbohydrates
■ Trehalose: May help retain curl in lashes and allows for long- lasting style benefits hair
Glycerin (80%)
74% Protein Protein performance: Hot water 76%
Flavones + Flavonols
Phenobio subcritical water technology
87%
Figure 2: 360-degree analysis ofMyrothamnus flabellifolius extract
crucial role in the hair growth cycle by inducing follicle development from the epidermis to produce hair fibres. Proliferating keratinocytes that sit on the dermal papilla produce the keratin proteins that form the hair fibre. HFDPCs from an adult human scalp were
treated with 2% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract and human keratinocytes from a 36-year-old donor were treated with 0.5% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract for 24 hours. Cells treated with the vehicle alone were used as basal control. Proliferation was evaluated by determining cell viability. To determine whetherMyrothamnus
flabellifolius extract can improve hair anchorage to minimise hair fall, two markers were examined: collagen XVII and integrin β4. These two proteins help to form the cell- matrix junctions of hemidesmosomes, the main binding units that anchor the hair to the basement membrane zone. The relative amounts of collagen XVII and integrin β4 were determined by immunostaining
Figure 3: Comparison of number of compounds extracted by different methods
human scalp explants that were treated with 2% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract for 8 days (on Days 0, 1, 4 and 6). Explants treated with the vehicle alone were used as a basal control. A further clinical test was carried out on
31 female volunteers of Caucasian, Hispanic and African descent, aged 28-50. They applied a serum containing 2% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract on the roots of the upper and lower eyelids (eyelash roots) and on the eyebrow of one side of the face, and a placebo serum on the roots of the upper and lower eyelids (eyelash roots) and on the eyebrow of the other side of the face, morning and night. Additionally, the volunteers applied
a mascara containing 2% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract on the upper and/or lower eyelashes of one eye, and a placebo mascara on the upper and/or lower eyelashes of the other eye, only in the morning. After 56 days of treatment different parameters were evaluated, including eyelash length and lift, eyebrow density, and loss of lash and brow hairs.
Results & discussion An analytical examination of the phytoactive composition of the Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract prepared by sub-critical water technology demonstrated that the extract contains mostly carbohydrates and some phenolic compounds. Specifically, three compounds were detected, which according to the literature, may present beneficial properties for hair (Figure 2): ■ Kaempferol glucuronide, which is known to increase proliferation of HFDPC ■ Miquelianin, which has been shown to reduce serine phosphorylation, which causes the disassembly of hemidesmosomes. Hemidesmosomes are multi-protein complexes that facilitate the stable adhesion of basal epithelial cells to the underlying basement membrane. Type XVII collagen and integrin β4 are both transmembrane proteins and hemidesmosomal components of basal keratinocytes ■ Trehalose, which may benefit the hair by helping retain moisture, offering hair
Figure 4: Fluorescence images for (L-R) control, positive control (VEGF) & 0.5% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract PERSONAL CARE March 2022
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Carbohydrates
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