52 NATURALS


could state that this active ingredient provides the much sought-after glow, giving a fresh look to volunteers. More specifically, the features and parameters improved included: ■ +12.8% hydration ■ -9.3% TEWL ■ +5.9% elasticity ■ +9.7% firmness ■ -7.3% wrinkles ■ -13.6% redness ■ +22% skin glow Furthermore, to better study its effect on skin firmness, Provital was able to create coloured facial mapping that allowed the positive evolution of the global firming effect on the face to be visualised. This was the first time the technique had been used to measure firmness (Figures 2). Thanks to its anti-inflammatory


profile, this active can help prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation processes15


, (Figure 4). In addition, by


reducing skin inflammatory reactions and redness, it will contribute to limiting inflammageing effects and therefore preventing their negative repercussion on skin ageing processes16,17


.


Conclusion All in all, Ethicskin™ significantly improves many skin features related to skin health, generating a preventive and – most importantly – inclusive path to skin ageing. At Provital, we are especially proud to be part of such a ground-breaking project that not only resulted in a multi-faceted cosmetic ingredient, but also widened the positive impact that our industry can have on the people and our planet.


Figure 4: Redness reduction for hemiface treated with the active of Latino volunteer 16B


Krutmann J, Reifenberger J, Fischer JW. Chronic ultraviolet B irradiation causes loss of hyaluronic acid from mouse dermis because of down-regulation of hyaluronic acid synthases. 2007. Am. J. Pathol. 2007. 171(5), 1451–1461. https://doi.org/10.2353/ ajpath.2007.070136


PC


References: 1 Egan A, Bayon A, Arteaga J, Callejas A. A revolutionary approach, UNDP ecosystems & biodiversity. 2918. https://undp-biodiversity. exposure.co/a-revolutionary-approach


2 Egan A, Bayon A, Arteaga J, Callejas A. Fair Share: A tool for transformation in Mexico, UNDP ecosystems & biodiversity. 2018. https://undp-biodiversity.exposure.co/fair- share


3 Rodríguez-Chávez JL, Egas V, Linares E, Bye R, Hernández T, Espinosa-García FJ, Delgado G. Mexican Arnica (Heterotheca inuloides Cass. Asteraceae): Astereae: Ethnomedical uses, chemical constituents & biological properties. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2017. 195;39– 63. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2016.11.021


4 Delgado G, Del Socorro Olivares M, Chávez MI, Ramírez-Apan T, Linares E, Bye R, Espinosa-García FJ. Anti-inflammatory constituents from Heterotheca inuloides. J. Nat. Products. 2001. 64(7);861–864. https:// doi.org/10.1021/np0005107


5 Clark RAF. Oxidative stress & ‘senescent’ fibroblasts in non-healing wounds as potential therapeutic targets. J. Inv. Derm. 2008. 128(10);2361–2364. https://doi. org/10.1038/jid.2008.257


6 Dai G, Freudenberger T, Zipper P, Melchior A, Grether-Beck S, Rabausch B, De Groot J, Twarock S, Hanenberg H, Homey B,


PERSONAL CARE March 2022


7 Dou C, Lay F, Ansari AM, Rees DJ, Ahmed AK, Kovbasnjuk O, Matsangos AE, Du J, Hosseini, SM, Steenbergen C, Fox-Talbot K, Tabor AT, Williams JA, Liu L, Marti GP, Harmon JW. Strengthening the skin with topical delivery of keratinocyte growth factor-1 using a novel DNA plasmid. Mol. Ther. 2014. 22(4);752–761. https://doi.org/10.1038/mt.2014.2


8 Humbert P, Dréno B, Krutmann, J, Luger TA, Triller R, Meaume S, Seité S. Recommendations for managing cutaneous disorders associated with advancing age. Clin. Interven. Aging. 2016. 11, 141–148. https:// doi.org/10.2147/CIA.S96232


9 Jonca N. Ceramides metabolism and impaired epidermal barrier in cutaneous diseases & skin ageing: Focus on the role of the enzyme PNPLA1 in the synthesis of ω-O- acylceramides and its pathophysiological involvement in some forms of congenital ichthyoses. Oilseeds & Fats, Crops & Lipids. 2019. 26(4. https://doi.org/10.1051/ ocl/2019013


10 Kiatsurayanon C, Niyonsaba F, Smithrithee R, Akiyama T, Ushio H, Hara M, Okumura K, Ikeda S, Ogawa H. 2014. Host defense (antimicrobial peptide, human β-defensin-3, improves the function of the epithelial tight- junction barrier in human keratinocytes. J. Inv. Derm. 2014. 134(8);2163–2173. https://doi. org/10.1038/jid.2014.143


11 Patel R, Heard LK, Chen X, Bollag WB. Aquaporins in the skin. Adv. Exper.


Med. Biol. 2017. 969;173–191. https://doi. org/10.1007/978-94-024-1057-0_11


12 Vasileiou PVS, Mourouzis I, Pantos C. Principal aspects regarding the maintenance of mammalian mitochondrial genome integrity. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2017. 18(8). https:// doi.org/10.3390/ijms18081821


13 Wang B et al. IL-1β–induced protection of Keratinocytes against S.aureus-secreted proteases is mediated by β -Defensin 2. J. Inv. Derm. 2017. 137(1); 95-105


14 Malaisse J, Bourguignon V, De Vuyst E, Lambert De Rouvroit C, Nikkels AF, Flamion B, Poumay, Y. Hyaluronan metabolism in human keratinocytes & atopic dermatitis skin is driven by a balance of hyaluronan synthases 1 & 3. J. Inv. Derm. 2014. 134(8);2174–2182. https://doi.org/10.1038/ jid.2014.147


15 Imokawa G. Melanocyte activation mechanisms & rational therapeutic treatments of solar lentigos. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019. 20(15). https://doi.org/10.3390/ ijms20153666


16 Murase D, Hachiya A, Kikuchi-Onoe M, Fullenkamp R, Ohuchi A, Kitahara T, Moriwaki S, Hase T, Takewa Y. Cooperation of endothelin-1 signaling with melanosomes plays a role in developing &/or maintaining human skin hyperpigmentation. Biol. Open. 2015 4(10);1213–1221. https://doi.org/10.1242/ bio.011973


17 Palareti G, Legnani C, Cosmi B, Antonucci E, Erba N, Poli D, Testa S, Tosetto A. Comparison between different D-Dimer cutoff values to assess the individual risk of recurrent venous thromboembolism: Analysis of results obtained in the DULCIS study. Int. J. Lab. Hematol. 2016. 38(1);42–49. https:// doi.org/10.1111/ijlh.12426


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