EYE CARE
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Control
in adipocytes (* p<0.05 vs. untreated reference – Student t test)
Activity on dermal matrix The effect of avocado polyphenols on the dermal matrix was evaluated by studying the gene expression of collagen I and elastin, two main components of the dermis, by fibroblasts. Normal human dermal fibroblasts
were incubated for 24 hours with avocado polyphenols at 0.0005% DM equivalent to 0.05% of the active ingredient, or TGFβ1 at 5 ng/ ml, positive reference inducing the expression of dermal matrix markers. Collagen I and elastin expression were analysed by real-time quantitative PCR after the incubation period. The clinical studies below confirmed
these areas of biological activity. The avocado polyphenols induced a significant increase in collagen I and elastin gene expression (Figure 8)
Clinical efficacy on dark circles The clinical efficacy of avocado polyphenols was evaluated by two double-blind controlled in vivo clinical studies. The active ingredient was formulated at 3% in a cream. The first study evaluated the ingredient’s efficacy on dark circles The 20 subjects, who were healthy females
0 *
-0.5 -1
-1.5 -2
+45%*
Forskoline 10 µM
Av.P. 0.005% dm
Figure 5: Effect of the active ingredient on the release of glycerol (lipolysis)
-2.5 -3
-3.5 -4
*
Forskoline 10 µM
diameter (* p<0.05 vs. untreated reference – Student t test)
aged 22 to 66 (average age 40±11.9) of all skin types, with Caucasian, phototype II to IV skin and dark circles under the eyes. Dark circle pigmentation was evaluated by Visia-CR, dark circle colour by spectrocolorimeter and clinical scoring.
Baseline measurements were taken on Day
0. The subjects applied the active ingredient and placebo at home, morning and evening, for 28 days, on the randomised side of the face, ensuring they were applied to the eye area in particular. They returned to the clinical unit after 28 days for measurements to be taken, analysing the variation between Days 0 and 28 for the active ingredient and the placebo, and the difference in variation for the active ingredient compared to that for the placebo. The active ingredient significantly decreases the
number (-9.74%) and the surface area (-21.45%) of pigmentary dark circles measured on photographs using the Visia-CR. The difference between the change in the area treated with the active ingredient and the change in the area treated with the placebo is significant, and in favour of the active ingredient in terms of number and surface area.
No significant change is observed for the
active ingredient in terms of dark circle ITA°/cheek ITA° ratio or in terms of dark circle brightness L*. The change is nevertheless in favour of the active ingredient (1.5-2.8 times higher than the placebo). The active ingredient and the placebo
significantly improve the colour of the dark circles as evaluated by clinical scoring (-14.88% and -9.02% respectively). The difference between the change in the area treated with the active ingredient and the change in the area treated with the placebo is significant, and in favour of the active ingredient. Overall, the outcomes of this first study show avocado polyphenols to be effective in terms of improvement of dark circle appearance.
Clinical efficacy on bags, dark circles & complexion radiance The objective of the second in vivo study was to evaluate the efficacy of the active ingredient on bags, vascular dark circles and complexion radiance. This was another double-blind controlled study that was conducted using the same protocols at the first.
Av.P. 0.005% dm
Figure 6: Effect of the active ingredient on the change in adipocyte *
37
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Glycerol (u.a.)
Delta compared to control (µ.a.)
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