EYE AREA CARE


Transforming a botanical with sub-critical water


Cristina Bonell, Julia Comas, Núria Almiñana, Raquel Delgado – Lipotec Spain Rebecca Chisholm, Sylesh Venkataraman – Lipotec USA


The hair cycle is a stem cell-mediated process that occurs in the skin and involves the periodic destruction and regeneration of hair follicles. It consists of three defined stages (Figure 1): anagen (growth), catagen (regression) and telogen (resting). The anagen phase can last for one to two


months for lashes and brows. At this stage, cell proliferation begins, the follicle is created and the hair fibre is formed. Once the period of active growth has ceased, the transitional phase between anagen and telogen takes place. This is known as the catagen phase, and it


lasts approximately two weeks for eyelashes and two to three weeks for eyebrows. Here, there is a pause in proliferation while cellular apoptosis increases. As a result, the hair fibre stops growing and the hair bulb is detached from the blood supply to move upward from the base. Lastly, the telogen phase takes


approximately four to nine months for eyelashes and two to three months for eyebrows. During this phase, the resting hair remains in the follicle until it is pushed out to allow the new hair to come through. The growth of a new hair fibre requires


re-entry into the anagen stage. This requires the activation of multipotent epithelial stem cells residing in a specialised part of the follicle known as the bulge, which is located in the outer root sheath. Stem cells in the bulge are activated by hair follicle dermal papilla cells, which send stimulatory signals to the stem cells


to proliferate and generate cells that migrate out of the bulge into the hair matrix. This gives rise to several differentiated


epithelial cell lineages, such as keratinocytes, which directly contribute to hair growth. After all, it is the keratin proteins that are generated from the proliferative activity of these keratinocytes that allow for the formation of the hair fibre.


This article introduces ResulookTM advanced


botanical ingredient, hereafterMyrothamnus flabellifolius extract, which has been transformed using the PhenobioTM


sub-critical


water technology to generate a novel active ingredient. This can help naturally achieve longer and fuller eyelashes and eyebrows for a more revived and beautiful look, offering a new natural solution for use in colour cosmetic applications.


Materials & methods Myrothamnus flabellifolius, also known as the ‘resurrection plant’, is typically found growing on rocky outcrops across South Africa, Zimbabwe and north as far as Kenya. During the drought season, it can go dormant for several months. However, after rainfall, bright green leaves begin to unfurl and within a short period the plant grows, flowers and disperses seeds. Because of its almost miraculous ability to ‘return from the dead’, the resurrection plant is a symbol of hope and endurance among local African communities. For the development of this new active ingredient, Myrothamnus flabellifolius was


Catagen ANAGEN Growth: 1-2 months


Stem cells are activated to produce a new hair sharft.


Life cycle of lashes and brows


Degradation: 2-3 weeks


The follicle enters a destructive phase. Epithelial cells at the base of the follicle undergo apoptosis.


ABSTRACT


The emphasis on eyes in beauty is greater than ever due to the adoption of masks during the pandemic. Healthy, fuller eyelashes and brows complement and flatter the eyes, whether the customer wears makeup or not. A preservative-free botanical extract from Myrothamnus flabellifolius has been transformed using sub-critical water technology to generate a novel active ingredient that is rich in kaempferol glucuronide, miquelianin and trehalose to help to naturally obtain longer and fuller eyelashes and eyebrows for a more revived and beautiful look.


sustainably and ethically sourced from rural farmers in Zimbabwe. The extract was created by treatment of the botanical with Phenobio sub-critical water extraction technology. This technology uses water at temperatures above boiling point (100°C) but below critical point (374°C) and at pressures high enough to maintain it in the liquid state at such temperatures. By adjusting the extraction process to


different temperature and pressure conditions, the polarity of water can be changed to resemble that of different organic solvents. Such changes in polarity allow the extraction of a broader range of phytoactives compared to the conventional extraction processes at room temperature. In addition, the technology overcomes certain disadvantages of conventional solvent extractions, such as long extraction times, use of chemical solvents and thermal degradation. To determine whether the botanical extract


Telogen Resting: 2-9 months


Follicles lie in a resting phase, and right after, the ‘old’ hair is expelled from the follicle.


www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Hair cycle


can contribute to microvasculature network formation, the ability of endothelial cells to form three-dimensional, tube-like structures was assessed. Human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs) were seeded on an extracellular matrix- coated plate and treated with 0.5% Myrothamnus flabellifolius extract in aqueous solution form for four hours. Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) was used as a positive control and cells treated with this medium alone were used as a basal control. After four hours of incubation, cells were stained with dye according to the manufacturer’s protocol. To determine whether the botanical extract


can improve cell proliferation, two cell models were used: hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) and keratinocytes. HFDPCs play a


March 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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