22 HYGIENE
Side effects Frequent and prolonged handwashing and/ or use of alcohol-based hand sanitiser can result in irritant contact dermatitis. Those with underlying atopic dermatitis are at most risk but increased contact with irritants will affect all of us to some extent. In the past, dermatitis sufferers were sometimes advised to use moisturisers as soap substitutes but the pandemic changed this. This method is unlikely to remove virus particles from hands as effectively as soap and water, so this strategy should be avoided. Instead, sufferers are advised to pat their
hands dry, moisturise regularly with rich creams and ointments and at night place cotton gloves over well-moisturised hands to aid the efficacy of the treatment. The use of protective rubber gloves to carry out chores like washing-up is an important step in managing dermatitis and dermatologists advise those with the disease to wear gloves even to wash their hair.6
Milder approach needed In pre-COVID days traditional, SLES-based hand washes rarely caused irritation. With frequent and prolonged washing now the norm, a gentler option may be advisable. This has encouraged many brands to formulate mild options, including: ■ Child’s Farm Hand Wash, which is sulfate- free and uses mild surfactants suitable for eczema-prone skin ■ E45 Emollient Wash, a soap-free, non- drying, non-foaming wash, which helps retain skin’s natural moisture levels and pH balance ■ Mrs Meyer’s Honeysuckle Hand Soap, containing moisturising glycerin, olive oil and aloe In the wake of all the increased
handwashing, numerous articles have been penned advising on how best to protect our dried-out skin, including round-ups of the best moisturisers available. The Independent’s ‘Indy Best Buy’ top choice was cult classic Clarins Hand and Nail Treatment. Launched in 1979, this has been a best-
seller for over 40 years with a tube sold every 30 seconds. The cream’s appeal is in its unusual quality of being both highly nourishing and easily absorbed. It contains occlusive shea butter as well as sesame oil, myrrh and mulberry extracts. Cases of psoriasis and eczema rose sharply
during lockdown and Google searches for ‘atopic dermatitis’ and ‘eczema’ are at a five-year high, according to Living magazine. Meanwhile, Healthline says that skin health will not have been helped by too much time spent indoors as skin rashes are a common reaction to dust mite allergies. A lack of vitamin D can exacerbate atopic dermatitis as well as contribute to many other skin problems, according to the National Library of Medicine
Barrier protection Understandably the beauty industry has responded to these skincare concerns and barrier function is a topic receiving much attention. Although COVID has escalated the severity, the industry had already become very focused on skin barrier function well before the
PERSONAL CARE March 2022
TABLE 1: FORMULATION OF AD-RESYL Phase
Ingredients A Water Ad-Resyl A1
Sodium Hyaluronate HMW
B Glycerin Ercawax GMS V
Ercanol CS 50/50 V Shea Butter
Beeswac SP 422P Ercarel HE V/FD Sunflower Oil Castor Oil
Cor-Sil 201-100 C Glyco-Repair INCI Aqua Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, Maltodextrin, Water Sodium Hyaluronate
Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol Glycol Distearate
Butyrospermum Parkii nut extract Cera Alba
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Ricinus Communis Seed Oil Dimethicone
Siliqua Seedd Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Glydant Plus Liquid* DMDM Hydantoin; lodopropynl Butycarbamate
% w/w 62.60
0.50 0.10
5.00 4.00 3.00 1.50
2.00 7.00 5.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 0.30
Procedure: Pre-mix A1 and add to Phase A. Heat Phase A to 170°C. Heat Phase B to 70°C. Homogenise Phase B into Phase A. Stir in Phase C and hot pour to pack All materials available from Cornelius except those marked * Lonza via Azelis
outbreak; ‘barrier repair’ and its cousin, ‘barrier protection’, were increasingly discussed. Our current climate escalates the need for
an understanding of this topic. Often the skin is not sensitive, but is perceived to be, due to a poor barrier function. Many consumers believe they have sensitive skin when in fact they have a weakened skin barrier, according to a report in the New York Times. Many sufferers who consult with
dermatologists discover that their skin has been sensitised by using products containing drying alcohol or harsh essential oils. Symptoms include inflammation and patchy, flaky skin. A weak skin barrier function can eventually lead to other problems since it means the skin’s defences are compromised. Barrier dysfunction can be a trigger
for rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and acne, all of which are on the rise according to epidemiological studies. A variety of raw materials can boost barrier function and aid skin recovery. There are several well-known materials in this category: ■ Beeswax has been used for centuries in cosmetic applications to form a protective barrier on the skin, helping to seal in moisture and protect skin from external aggression ■ Laurel wax is a vegan, plant-based alternative to beeswax ■ Shea butter has a rich, occlusive texture which provides protection to the skin. Its chemical composition provides this texture, as well as anti-inflammatory, moisturising and softening qualities ■ Glycerin is a humectant – it binds water to itself – this helps boost hydration and improve barrier function.
Developing dermo-cosmetics Specialised raw materials have been developed to promote advanced barrier healing and protection. Glyco-Repair® is an active ingredient from Cornelius’ partner Silab, an engineer of natural active ingredients. Obtained from locust beans, this material regenerates the natural processes of skin repair with a dual action on the epidermis and dermis. By reactivating re-epithelialisation, it
consolidates the epidermal barrier function, creating a healing action. It restores the renewal of the dermal matrix to repair age-related disorders. Its pro-regenerating, anti-wrinkle and smoothing effects make it ideal in all repairing care products. Silab Softcare is a department within the
company which offers natural active molecules specifically for the care of compromised skin. One of these, a patented active ingredient called AD-Resyl® (Table 1), has been specifically developed to prevent the clinical signs of atopic dermatitis and prolong periods of remission following corticosteroid therapy. AD-Resyl strengthens skin barrier function,
improves hydration, inhibits inflammatory responses, and restores the equilibrium of cutaneous microbiota and reduces neuronal hyperreactivity (Figure 1) In-depth clinical trials show efficacy for children and adults. The acid mantle is the protective film
of natural oils, amino acids and sweat that covers the skin, and it can be damaged through agitation linked to excessive washing or in extreme cases, scrubbing. Skin has a pH of around 5.5 but most washes have an alkaline pH and so neutralise skin pH, possibly compromising barrier function.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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