42 NATURALS


performance similar to petroleum jelly, while TEWL tests indicate less occlusivity for the vegetable grade, which helps preserve the skin’s natural breathing process and thus the quality of the microbiome on its surface. Thus, during long-term daily use, dermatologists recommend the natural version for better compatibility and protection of the skin. Another example of an alternative, Natura-Tec


Vegetable Beeswax is a 100% vegetable wax that reproduces the behaviour of the animal grade. This is produced in France and was developed to establish positive environmental awareness with a minimal carbon footprint and to help cosmetic industries use eco-responsible ingredients in their formulations without affecting biodiversity. Because it is known that the intensive


‘cultivation’ of the bees during the production of beeswax can adversely affect the process of pollination itself. This process is fundamental for the survival and the evolution of plant species in the world. Bees are the main actor in this process and must be protected. They are an integral part of our biodiversity. In terms of cosmetics, the high compatibility


of our vegetable beeswax makes it very easy to use in all types of cosmetic formulations. This wax nourishes, hydrates and softens the skin at body temperature, and has properties like those of animal origin.


Multi-functionality for more transparency Multi-functional ingredients provide multi- target solutions, allowing a single product to cover several needs. This helps to rationalise the number of ingredients in the formula for a simpler, healthier, safer and more sensory cosmetic to bring more transparency and therefore better tolerance. The challenge to be taken up is therefore


to combine efficiency and sensoriality. This has been met with the active Natura-Tec Abysoft, a natural multi-purpose conditioning agent for skincare, haircare and make-up, as well as syndet and soap bars. This presents unique sensory properties, like a second skin, associated with deep hydration and an intense conditioning, protective effect for the skin and hair. Other functions include makeup applications,


where it will help the dispersion of pigments and provide long-lasting hold. Finally, it will allow the formulation of emulsions without


Paraffinum liquidum ■ Natura-tec Abysoft ■ Glyceryl oleate■


30 25 20 15 10 5 0


2% 5% Figure 2: Natura-Tec Abysoft co-emulsifying property


emulsifier helping with the development of palm free formulas, guaranteeing an ingredient of non-palm origin. (Figure 2). This co-emulsifying property will also be taken up by the Natural BBB Beauty Balm Base, a natural solution to creativity with an original texture. The very act of looking out for our skin, no


matter the purpose, is comforting and soothing by nature. This natural texturiser offers a wide range of possibilities. Its butter like consistency with high malleability, while having a high melting point at around 75°C, gives softness to formulations with a silicone feel at application, good absorption and a velvety finish. With the right ingredient, consumers can take care of their skin and truly enjoy an inspiring and satisfying experience at the same time.


Microalgae active ingredients What would be the point of developing and supplying renewable and sustainable products if we use bad technology and consume millions of kWh of energy? Microalgae ensure the functioning of the


main biological cycles and the maintenance of biodiversity on earth. They thrive through photosynthesis and can produce unique, natural compounds that are very beneficial to the skin. Our patented technology allows us to obtain specific species in quantities large enough to meet the needs of the formulator while controlling the growing environment and ensuring real sustainability and safety.


Microalgae CO2


Minimal CO2


footprint Waste Recycled oils Figure 3: Microalage & the CO2 Energy cycle PERSONAL CARE March 2022 Ingredients The microalgae inoculum is obtained from


a ‘nursery’, a biological resource centre that is dedicated to supplying cultures to the scientific community around the world, which respects the Nagoya protocol, does not harm biodiversity and allows the conservation of integrated resources. The inoculum has a very specific identity card and, thanks to our company quality management system, all traceability is guaranteed from the inoculum to the biomass. An important step in the production phase


is the use of green energy produced by closed- circuit waste recycling systems where the resulting CO2


is purified and supplied as an essential


metabolic element to the microalgae, thus ensuring that the entire process has the lowest possible carbon footprint. (Figure 3) This process makes our greenhouse an


advanced, energy-independent and sustainable production unit. In addition, the greenhouse system is carefully controlled from external contaminants while exploiting the most favourable climatic and sunny conditions of the Mediterranean.


‘Zero kilometers’ concept The ‘zero kilometers’ approach drives activities, growth and investments within NaturaTec and is part of the ‘Beautiful Earth Sustainable Technology’ (BEST) protocol (Figure 4) in which the key products are screened for eco- responsible sourcing. The idea of bringing the cultivation ofCrambe Abyssinica seeds back to the Mediterranean region, the main ingredient in Abysoft, thus providing a local supply for the raw material of Abyssinian oil, came to fruition five years ago. This, like many other of our raw materials,


enables us to cultivate plant resources within their natural ecosystem where flora, fauna and other elements typical of the geographical location create a natural balance that avoids other forms of human or chemical intervention. Natura-Tec is in talks with local institutions to acquire land on an urban scale, to plant and develop new natural products. Many other products are sourced locally. Our


olive derivatives are obtained from olive groves of the Mediterranean basin; our sweet almond oil is guaranteed from Italian or Spanish sources; and the resin used in Plantsoft L is of French origin, obtained from the Pinus Pinaster tree.


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Separation time (mins)


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