48 NATURALS
generally familiar with waxes as structurants. Many waxes thicken organic liquid media by building a three-dimensional network (called a gel) that keeps them entrapped and immobilised. Not all waxes thicken and the ones that do, do not always behave the same, which is why the ability to measure, record and eventually predict gel hardness is an important tool in cosmetic formulations. In another series of experiments2
TABLE 5: SENSORY & PERFORMANCE EVALUATION OF SELECTED BASE 1 FORMULAS Formula 1 (0%, control)
Formula 3 (6% K-48)
Before application Shape integrity Whiteness Opacity Gloss
, we collected
and documented gel strength data for each of the three aforementioned waxes in several different cosmetic oil media, factoring in different chemical types, polarities and viscosities. They were all categorised as ‘moderate’ thickeners with a tendency to crystallise in the media they gel. This means they are not recommended for
use as sole structurants in bars, sticks or balms. However, they are all excellent at increasing the formula hardness, with minimal effects on other properties, like melt point. The exception is stearyl stearate. Due to its higher molecular weight and higher melt point, it can provide structure to an anhydrous formula on its own, depending on the use level and oil/wax compatibility.
Summary & conclusions Kester Waxes are indicated for use in all cosmetic formulations, and their different properties allow cosmetic formulators to control the outcome of their finished formulas. Table 8 summarises their functions in different finished formulations. Empty boxes indicate that the particular wax is not suggested, while asterisks indicate it is appropriate for use. The higher the number of asterisks, the better the fit.
References: 1. Sarkar R, Podder I, Gokhale N. Jagadeesan S, Garg VK. Use of vegetable oils in dermatology: An overview. Int. J. Dermatol. 2017, 56(11): 1080-1086
2. Archambault JC, Bonte F. Grasas Vegetales en Cosmetologia. Revista Boliviana de Quimica. 2021, 38(2): 68-79
3. Berdick, M. The role of fats & oils in cosmetics. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 1972, 49: 406–408
4. Fiume MM et al. Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics. Int. J. Toxicol. 2015, 34(2): 5S-69S
5. Abrutyn ES. Skin care moisturisers. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 31 May 2013. https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas- products/skin-care/blog/21837656/skin-care- moisturizers (accessed January 28, 2022).
6. Christie WW. Waxes, Lipid MAPS Lipidomics Gateway.
https://www.lipidmaps.org/ resources/lipidweb/
index.php?page=lipids/
TABLE 8: PROPERTIES OF KOSTER KEUNEN WAXES Property
Anhydrous systems
Emulsion systems
Primary structurant
Secondary structurant / Added harness
Opacity/Whiteness Emulsion ‘body’ Viscosity
Reduce ‘soaping’ effect PERSONAL CARE March 2022 **
*** ** * *
*** *** ***
** *
During application (skin) Bounce
Firmness
Slip/Spreadability Absorption Soaping
After application (skin) Hydrated look Hydrated feel
2 4 3 4
1 1
5 5 2
4 4
4 5 5 4
4 4 5 4 2
4 4
Formula 14 (6% K-48)
4 5 4 3
Firmness
Slip/Spreadability Absorption Soaping
After application (skin) Hydrated look Hydrated feel
PC
TABLE 7: SENSORY & PERFORMANCE EVALUATION OF SELECTED BASE 3 FORMULAS Formula 23 (0%, control) Formula 25 (6% K-48)
Formula 27 (6% K-56)
Before application Shape integrity Whiteness Opacity Gloss
During application (skin) Bounce
Firmness
Slip/Spreadability Absorption Soaping
After application (skin) Hydrated look Hydrated feel
3 3 3 3
2 2 4 5 1
3 2
simple/waxes/
index.htm (retrieved 17 January 2021)
7. Pappas A. Epidermal surface lipids. Dermato-endocrinology.2009, 1(2): 72-76 8. Eberting CL, Coman G, Blickenstaff N.
Kester Wax K-48 (Cetyl Palmitate)
Kester Wax K-56 (Cetyl Stearate)
Kester Wax K-59 (Stearyl Stearate)
*
*** ***
* * *
4 5 4 3
4 4 2 4 1
3 2
4 5 4 2
3 3 4 5 1
3 2
Formula 29 (6% K-59)
4 5 4 5
3 3 2 4 1
3 2
Repairing a compromised skin barrier in dermatitis: Leveraging the skin’s ability to heal itself. J. Allergy Ther. 2014, 5: 187
9. Final report on the safety assessment of octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate & isopropyl palmitate. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.
https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr238.pdf (accessed 14 January 2022)
10. Mintel.
http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/gnpd/ search (accessed 13 January 2022)
11. Fiume MM et al. Safety assessment of cetearyl heptanoate & related stearyl alkanoates as used in cosmetics. Int. J. Toxicol. 2012, 31(2): 141S-146S
12. Lemieux BM. Five waxes & an infinite range of textures. Personal Care. January 2021:61-64
www.personalcaremagazine.com
4 4 2 4 1
3 2
Formula 5 (6% K-56)
5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 2
4 4
TABLE 6: SENSORY & PERFORMANCE EVALUATION OF SELECTED BASE 2 FORMULAS Formula 12 (0%, control)
Formula 16 (6% K-56)
Before application Shape integrity Whiteness Opacity Gloss
During application (skin) Bounce
3 3 3 3
2 2 4 5 1
3 2
4 5 4 2
3 3 4 5 1
3 2
Formula 7 (6% K-59)
4 5 4 5
3 2 5 4 2
4 4
Formula 18(6% K-59)
4 5 4 5
3 3 2 4 1
3 2
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