10 NEWS
Clariant unveils additions to Vita range
Clariant has added 100% bio- based surfactants and PEGs to its range of Vita-designated ingredients, all of which are based on renewable feedstocks and have at least 98% renewable carbon index ingredients. They are aimed at natural formulations for use in detergents, hair and body shampoo and other applications. The new products are based
on bio-ethanol derived from sugar cane or corn to create the ethylene oxide raw material. This
is fully segregated along the value chain from the field to the final consumer product. Clariant claims that the Vita
surfactants “can help save up to 85% of CO2
to their fossil analogues”. Within Q1, “double-digit kilotons” of the bio-based surfactants and PEGs will be available for the worldwide business segments from the Clariant IGL Specialty Chemicals joint venture, the company added.
Stephenson creates sustainability role
UK-based natural ingredients manufacturer Stephenson has appointed Marie Maisonnette (pictured) to the newly created role of sustainability manager. Maisonnette joins from Stephenson’s offshoot business CO2Sustain, where she was a business development specialist covering Europe and South America. She will mainly be based at the manufacturing plant in Leeds. As well as knowledge of raw
materials from a previous role in the group, her role involves working with other specialists across the business to ensure that the most eco-friendly production, containment and distribution methods are being
employed, and with department heads, including health and safety management, engineering and marketing. Stephenson has already
partnered with global sustainability consultancy Anthesis to manage its strategy and CSR projects. It aims to have switched 85% of its palm derivatives by volume to physically RSPO-certified mass-balanced, segregated or identity-preserved supply chain models by the end of the year. The company has also launched a number of products using 100% RSPO-certified ingredients and more sustainable or less packaging, as well as its first solid conditioning bar.
Flowers as cosmetic dyes
Researchers from four different Polish universities and institutions have carried out research on the use of the water extracts of five flowers as bioactive, natural dyes for cosmetics. ‘Flower extracts as multi-functional dyes in the cosmetics industry’ was published Molecules in January. Extracts from Papaver
rhoeas, Punica granatum, Clitoria ternatea, Carthamus tinctorius and Gomphrena globosa were tested for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. Further tests were made of their cytotoxic effects on skin cells, using Alamar Blue
and Neutral Red tests, and of their ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen. P. rhoeas extract showed
the strongest antioxidant properties, with IC50 values of 24.8±0.42 and 47.5±1.01 µg/ mL in the ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The plants also have an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at about 55% was noted. P. rhoeas, C. ternatea and C. tinctorius show the strongest colouring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products without significant colour changes during storage.
New biomimetic peptides
BASF Care Creations has launched Peptovitae, a series of four patented peptides in a double-layered, liposome-based encapsulation system for skin care applications. The range was developed in Asia via an exclusive relationship with Caregen, a Korean specialist in the field. Roll-out has started in Asia and the products will be made available
PERSONAL CARE March 2022
in other regions during the course of 2022. Each of the four addresses specific skin are issues: combatting the signs of ageing (Peptovitae Matrix), enhancing skin brightness (Peptovitae Bright), soothing skin prone to dryness and itching (Peptovitae Derma), and calming and moisturising skin (Peptovitae Clear).
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VAV receives COSMOS approval globally
Mumbai-based VAV Life Sciences, a nanotechnology company, has received COSMOS approval for the global supply of its lecithin and phospholipid ingredients for multiple industry applications, including personal care, as being of natural origin. This follows the completion of stringent documentation audit processes for its ingredients by Ecocert.
VAV’s subsidiary VAV Lipids has an EU cGMP-certified facility for manufacturing phospholipids at Ratnagiri in Maharashtra state. The portfolio includes Leciva plant phospholipids, Lipova animal phospholipids, synthetic phospholipids, neutral lipids, APIs and speciality proteins. It exports almost 80% of its products, mainly to North America, Europe and Asia.
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