IN-COSMETICS PREVIEW
lifts up the cheeks. Also new is Adeplump, an Arnica montana flower extract that increases adipocyte size by accelerating both growth and differentiation of preadipocyte. 1% treatment for four weeks leads to “significant volume-up of face, lips, breasts and provides beautiful skin-plumping to them”, the company says.
Nagase Personal Care (F11) has three new
products on show in the Innovation Zone. Lissenare is a naturally derived hair care ingredient beneficial for styling and treatment. It enables hair styling products to hold hair firmly while providing better flexibility, which are typically thought to be incompatible. Micromica MK-100K-C is a base powder from upcycled raw materials, a next generation fine particle filler and extender which claims “unparalleled transparency”. Finally, Rublaleaf KCX-5000 is a sensory enhancer based on natural cellulose beads with a feel equivalent to microplastic beads
Mibelle Biochemistry (H30) of Switzerland will be launching a new upcycled cosmetic ingredient. It will also be featuring two recently launched ingredients. MelanoGray is an anti-hair greying essence sustainably obtained by upcycling the peel paste from organic mandarins from the Greek island of Chios, while MossCellTec Aloe is produced by using the firm’s MossCellTec biotechnology and improves intercellular communication via gap junctions in the epidermis to synchronise the cell activities in the skin.
Biosynthis (N62) has developed Vegelight
Iso-Silk a biosourced, biodegradable and ultra- volatile emollient to replace isododecane from isobutene gas. The company says that it provides a unique silky feel and is particularly appropriate for makeup and hair care formulations, like waterproof mascaras and eyeliners, lipsticks and lipgloss, foundations and hair serums. Vegelight Iso-Silk can be also used as a solvent for powder slurries and is said to be an excellent good makeup remover with a good skin tolerance and a very good solvent for silicone polymers. It is particularly designed for low-transfer make-up formulations at up to 35-40 % concentrations and at up to 90% in anti-frizz biodegradable cyclomethicone-free serums.
Natura-Tec (C130) is launching Natura-Tec
SeaBerry Blue to intrinsically strengthen the skin’s natural antioxidant defences against excessive exposure to UV rays and blue light. This antioxidant system is said to provide intense global protection, while preserving the youthfulness of the skin. The company has also developed massage candle bases, which are easy to use and specifically for prestige massage “with soft and silky textures to offer an enchanted parenthesis”.
Ascot International (Q162) if offering both new
products and new services. The former comprise upcycled ingredients, circular raw materials and naturally derived ingredients, plus a new encapsulated fragrance range based on menthol, eucalyptus and camphor. The company is also offering full technical support and formulation advice for all of its existing and new products.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Kelisema (U95) At U95, Kelisema will show its range
of vegetable complex and natural protein extracts for skin and hair care upcycled from renewable natural sources of Italian origin by green extraction technology. These include: Castanea Hydrablend chestnut extract; Keliolive olive fruit extract; Kellialgea SP spirulina extract: Orysol rice protein extract; Barley, a barley extract; Kelimillet millet extract; Kellipro Quinoa, a quinoa extract; and Keliwoool sheeps’ wool extract. All are COSMOS-compliant.
There are three new launches from
Interactifs by Aceto (F70). ReTrus GF is an extract from the upcycling of early-picked, organically farmed Japanese grapefruits. It inhibits TNFα, a primary inflammatory cytokine secreted by cells exposed to UV, thus acting as a whitener, and promotes the expression of SVCT1, a protein that increases the absorption of vitamin C. Lineagreen is extracted from non-fermented rooibos with a low temperature drying process. It is richer than fermented rooibos in flavonoids, especially aspalathin (x40) and offers a new approach against inflammageing by inhibiting neutrophils-like cell migration and the expression of cytokines. Parawhite is made from white asparagus grown by blanching culture in Organic JAS–approved fields in Hokkaido. It is said to protect the skin barrier by a direct action on tight junctions and improves hydration even in harsh sanitary conditions.
Libra Speciality Chemicals (T100) of the UK has just completed a £4 million investment in new technology to convert its betaines into novel low-salt betaines. Low-salt betaine has >83% natural content (ISO 16128.) and is made from sustainable, natural raw materials, offering formulators much greater flexibility, and performs better in many formulations than standard betaine, the firm claims. Libra’s newly developed technology can de-salt the betaines from 5.5% salt down to 0.5% and can go down to as low as 0.05%.
Codif Technologie Naturelle (C90) has a
new active ingredient called Idaskin. This is based on the culture in photobioreactors of the microalgae Emiliania huxleyi, also called the planet’s green thermostat. This planktonic microalga protects its single cell behind a chain of shields called coccoliths and built from atmospheric CO2
that it absorbs in
75
huge quantities. Idaskin is directly inspired by Emilinia huxleyi’s ability to activate a pool of heat shock proteins and a ubiquitin- proteasome system that provide a high resilience towards exposomal stress.
Advanced Dispersed Particles (V141) Advanced Dispersed Particles (V141) is
focusing on its high-efficiency, multi-functional mineral UV filters, which it says are the only ones on the market are able to protect in the full spectrum due to its “smart and unique manufacturing process”. They are said to be perfect balanced size particles (>100nm) with a transparent effect on the skin, combining colour and protection in one ingredient, as well as being highly compatible in the oil and water phases. They have strong technical and regulatory support, including Ecocert and COSMOS certifications, and are coral-friendly
Dr Paul Lohmann (V114) Dr Paul Lohmann (V114) produces a
range of mineral salts that it says are in line with the increasingly important concept of ‘beauty from within’. Mineral bisglycinates are ideal as ingredients in nutricosmetics due to their beneficial properties, such as high bioavailability and good toleration when used. Zinc bisglycinate, for example, protects against excessive acne and helps the skin heal smaller lesions due to the anti-bacterial and anti- inflammatory properties of zinc.
Worlée (C110) has four new products on
show. WorléeMicromer Eco 200/10 is a natural film former (NOI 0.99) and dispersing agent based on rapeseed, which improves adhesion and creates an even application in lip and foundation formulations. Aloe-based WorléeAloe IF 200x FD (HA) is compatible with high alcohol use levels and can be used in hand sanitisers and wet wipes. WorléeScrub Olive are the firm’s new natural exfoliating bodies obtained
March 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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