ANALYSIS
What to keep an eye on, according to the Deciem Lab: Known as ‘the abnormal beauty company’, Deciem has experienced rapid growth since its launch in 2013. The company is part-owned by Estee Lauder and includes the brands The Ordinary and NIOD among its portfolio. “[Postbiotics] are ingredients obtained
through bacterial lysis, the rupture of the cell wall/membrane of a specific bacterial strain, thereby releasing compounds that may impart a cosmetic effect on the skin, such as enzymes, peptides, polysaccharides, or organic acids (including the also popular AHAs). The cosmetic raw material may be the bacterial lysate itself, or the purified ingredients that are released post-lysis. “Either way, biotechnologies such as
the use of bacteria to produce cosmetic ingredients are quite sustainable. This is far more sustainable than the extraction of compounds from a crop that has to be planted and harvested over and over again. We believe this to be the future of cosmetic raw materials and are happy that customers are paying attention to these technologies, even if drawn to them from a microbiome enhancing point of view, rather than their highly sustainable nature. At Deciem, this technology may be found in NIOD’s NAAP, where we use Lactococcus Ferment Lysate for its skin smoothing properties.”
Sleeping with the enemy Retinol is a here-to-stay trend. During lockdown, consumers have been embracing the ingredient, with searches spiking in May 2020 and continuing to grow as a sustained rising trend. Sharon Padua, sr. product developer in the beauty industry, explains that retinol is a proven ingredient, and while lockdown is the perfect time for experimentation with the ingredient, consumers will find out that it does not always play nice — hence the rise in searches for substitutes, including an increase in interest for the ingredient Bakuchiol. Retinol is likely to create skin irritation,
which could explain the increase in searches around “gentle” and “sensitive” skin solutions.
Azelaic acid Azelaic acid is a sustained riser which experienced high growth during lockdown, mainly in association with The Ordinary and Paula’s Choice. Consumers are searching for
TABLE 2: SEASONAL RISERS. SOURCE: GOOGLE SEARCH DATA, YEAR-OVER-YEAR GROWTH COMPARING THE PAST 12 MONTHS ENDING NOVEMBER 2020 VS THE 12 MONTHS PRIOR (US).
Ingredient mullein
black elderberry carbomer ravintsara
rosa canina winter cherry
beet root extract polymethylsilsesquioxane Growth
+73.7% +88.6% +132.5% +112.8% +84.5% +67.9% +72.7%
+120.0%
www.personalcaremagazine.com Mullein. Marshmallow root.
azelaic acid as a solution to acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation — but lack of searches around benefits (ie antioxidants, refining) demonstrate opportunity for brands to educate consumers and position themselves around the benefits.
Marshmallow root Marshmallow root is mainly associated with health-related concerns, but the ingredient is trending in the hair category (+57.3% since last year). Marshmallow root is said to have antioxidant properties, and support skin health and inflammation. Consumers are still in the early stages of awareness for this ingredient — indicating strong potential for future growth.
Glycolic acid Similarly to azelaic acid, glycolic acid saw a spike in interest as consumers turned to The Ordinary while researching the best scientific ingredients for their skin. Glycolic acid is already at mass awareness, with high competition. New brands looking to enter the space must innovate in product format or ingredient pairings.
Conclusion The 2021 beauty consumer is driven by ingredients. Consumers will seek out products by ingredient first, and make selections based on ingredient claims and/or concerns. What does this mean for brands? Ingredients are complicated, but beauty purchases should be easy. Help
TABLE 3: RISING STARS. SOURCE: GOOGLE SEARCH DATA, YEAR-OVER-YEAR GROWTH COMPARING THE PAST 12 MONTHS ENDING NOVEMBER 2020 VS THE 12 MONTHS PRIOR (US).
Ingredient
phospholipids alpha arbutin zinc gluconate
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Growth
+48.0% +242.4% +184.1%
+179.4%
consumers by showcasing the ingredients (and their benefits) up-front and centre. Consumers are spending a lot of time
comparing different ingredients, searching for their benefits, and seeking out how to mix and match ingredients. Make it easy for consumers to pair products based on ingredients that go together, and help consumers avoid mixing products that do not go together. Explicitly state the dos and don’ts — less confusion will lead to a more confident, decisive beauty consumer. Bonus points: think beyond your brand, as
consumers are more likely to have routines which include multiple products across a variety of brands. Building a routine across different brands can be complicated for consumers — be the brand that makes it easy. Pair it with a familiar ingredient. Consumers are demonstrating loyalty when it comes to ingredients. Bakuchiol and hyaluronic acid have been trending since 2018, and continue to grow strong in demand. As consumer knowledge across ingredients continues to advance, Americans are adding more ingredients to their ever-growing checklist. American beauty consumers are always
looking for the next best ingredient, so do not stop innovating there — but if you are introducing a new ingredient, consider pairing with and highlighting familiar ingredients, as well. Reward consumers for the research and expertise they have attained so far, before adding a new ingredient to their research list. Look to the wellness category for a list of ingredients that are familiar to consumers in other contexts.
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PC April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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