58 HAIR CARE CONTROL UVA 12HR UVA 48HR UVB 12HR UVB 48HR
Figure 1: Differences of the Damage of Hair and Integral Hair Lipid after Ultra Violet Radiation [1]. Scanning electron microscopy findings for all hair samples. The greater the irradiation time, the greater the damage to the hair surface. African hair showed the most damage to the hair surface.
UVB radiation maintains in cuticle area,
creating hair photochemical impairment: degradation and loss of hair proteins as well as degradation of hair pigment.7
Protecting the
cuticle is very important for keeping hair shaft and scalp integrity. The oil blend has shown to exert a protective
effect against UV radiation, protecting the hair fibre from UV.
Protocol The present study aimed to assess the UV protection capacity of both shampoo and conditioner formulations, dosed with 1% oil blend compared to their corresponding placebo equivalents. Two sets of African hair locks were prepared and equilibrated after being washed with either shampoo, placebo, or conditioner, letting the products work for 5 min. Measurements were obtained in 5 different points along the length of the fibre. For the successive measurements, the measurement positions were conserved. UV irradiation was performed during 24H using a UVA (50 W/m2 and UVB (4 W/m2
) ) lamps prepared to simulate
solar exposure (280-410 nm). Before UV irradiation, an assessment of
the hair colour was performed by instrumental evaluation. Hair colour was obtained using a tristimulus colour analyser that measures reflected colour. The system uses high sensitivity photocells filtered to match CIE standard. The measuring head contains a high- power xenon arc lamp which provides diffuse illumination from a controlled angle for vertical viewing and constant lighting on the object. The system detects any slight deviation
in the xenon’s light spectral distribution. The system provides data for the Luminance (L*), a* (red-green), and b*(blue-yellow) colour distribution. The measurements were
PERSONAL CARE April 2021
40 30 20 10 0
27.5 *
14.2 N.S.
TABLE 1: NORMALISED HAIR BREAKAGE FORCE (PRODUCT SHAMPOO 1% ETHOMEGA) IS SHOWN IN FIGURE 2. Ref.
T0 1 6.8 4.3 After application 1 After application 2
Figure 2: Normalised hair breakage force % change during the study. Mean values of all fibres (n=12). Also shown is the statistical comparison between the two products (*: p<0,05; N.S.: Non-significant).
TABLE 2: A* EVALUATION (PRODUCT SHAMPOO 1% ETHOMEGA) IS SHOWN IN FIGURE 3.
Ref. 1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
T0
17.52 25.43 27.91 28.17 28.92 26.57 29.47 27.68 30.38 29.22 23.06 25.34 26.71 28.27 26.91 22.29 25.47 27.67 28.59
20 30.49
T Final 16.67
25.02 26.53 26.76 27.71
25.33 29.58 25.98 30.17 29.22 21.55 25.06 26.58 27.59 26.61 22.05 24.19 28.08 28.28 30.42
% Change -4.9
-1.6 -4.9 -5.0 -4.2 -4.7 0.4 -6.1 -0.7 0.0
-6.5 -1.1
-0.5 -2.4 -1.1 -1.1
-5.0 1.5
-1.1 -0.2 -3 Final
Figure 3: Hair red colour change during the study after UV radiation + 1% Ethomega shampoo application vs placebo. Mean values of all locks (n=8). Also shown is the statistical comparison between the two products (*: p<0,05).
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2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11
12 SD
0.19 0.27 0.29 0.41 0.42 0.26 0.28 0.31 0.27 0.32 0.33 0.56
Mean 0.32 0.10
First Application 0.43 0.31
0.40 0.30 0.48 0.38 0.40 0.37 0.31 0.32 0.38 0.38 0.37 0.05
0.50 0.43 0.39 0.39 0.46 0.37 0.36 0.41 0.44 0.36 0.46 0.41
0.04
Placebo Shampoo ■ Shower 1% Ethomega ■ 3
2.5
Second Application 0.41
1
-1
-2.4 *
AFRICAN
CAUCASIAN
ASIAN
% Change
% Change
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