ANTI-POLLUTION
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Anti-pollution effect: a complex claimobjectivation
Anne Charpentier – Skinobs, France
Since the spring of 2020, the global health crisis related to COVID-19 has placed the pollution risks of megacities as a secondary concern. Should viruses be considered as an integrated part of pollutants? They belong to the large family of microbiota such as micro-organisms, bacteria, viruses, fungi, yeast. Hand washing with soap or hydro alcoholic gel, an essential barrier to virus contagion, has become a way of life around the world.
The bactericidal efficacy of cosmetic hygiene
products is evaluated in vitro by following the recommendations of bactericidal tests by distinguishing handwashing products by friction and quantifying the reduction in the viability of Escherichia coli. As for the antiviral activity of a hygiene product, its objectivation seems to be pharmaceuticals. For the face, the wearing of masks, sometimes
amounting to many hours daily, becomes a new parameter to be taken into consideration in assessing the tolerance and effectiveness of cosmetic products. The resulting change in the skin ecosystem is significant and can be akin to close pollution, due to the promoted development of bacteria, friction of tissue, increased CO2
as well as
temperature and sebaceous secretion. For hands, too much use of hydro-alcoholic
gels can also cause skin stress. These leave-on hygiene products promote hand dehydration, which is often put to the test during the winter. Clinical trials can be conducted under normal
conditions of use to assess the consequences of these new uses through: ■ Use tests and self-assessment ■ Tolerance tests and expert score evaluation ■ Sensory analysis tests with trained or naïve panels ■ Biometrological tests to measure the different parameters of skin physiology and in particular the evaluation of the skin barrier function and TEWL, colour, sebum level, hydration, imperfections... These are the immediate restorative effects
that will be studied and the protective effects over a day or a few days of use. The protocols should be adapted to consumers of the skin care product, age, lifestyle, skin type... Pollution has been a major environmental risk
to public health in major megacities around the planet for many years. A lot of human activities become a stress factor for nature and human living conditions which lead to various problems such as: respiratory troubles, DNA changes, premature ageing of the skin, among others.
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The pollution included in the ‘Exposome concept’ has various origins: agriculture, energy production, natural phenomena (volcano eruptions, road transport, fuel combustion, methane synthesis... and the list is so long!).
The classic pollutants Today, the majority of pollutants which impact good skin condition are found in air. We can also think that water, soil, and food pollution can also affect the skin. MyExposome identified 1400 substances after one week of a normal life pollution exposure. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) of the US classifies pollutants into 5 categories: ■ The heavy pollutants (lead) ■ The fine (10µm) and ultra-fine (2.5 µm) particles ■ Nitrogen oxides (car exhaust) ■ Sulfur oxides (industrial plants) ■ Ozone (ground level) Thus, air pollution is composed of two main types of primary pollutants: Particulate matter (PM), and Gases (O3 NOx
, CO2 compounds (VOC). , CO, SOx , and ) which are also named volatile organic
What are the consequences of the pollution on the skin physiology? One of the effects of air pollution combined with ozone and UV rays on skin is the generation of free radicals and the consequences of inflammatory reactions on the performance of the skin barrier. The oxidative stress generally causes an imbalance between the formation and removal of ROS and RNS and a decrease of the natural antioxidant protection. The endogenous stress can induce an
increase in the formation of glycated products which lead to the development of AGE (Advanced Glycation End Product). The AGE affects the quality of the extracellular matrix by destroying the collagen. The skin adjusts permanently to the environmental changes and counteracts the pollution influences on its physiological balance. The chronic stress induced by environmental pollution alters the integrity of the skin barrier and can generate skin disorders such as: dermatitis, sensitivity, dehydration, pigmentation disorders. Chemical pollutant particles release toxic compounds that may damage the skin at a deeper level.
April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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