SKIN CARE Control ■ AHE 1% ■ CC 1% ■
180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
157 125 100 65 100 85
75
(p<0,006). Thus, AHE exerts a highly efficient cleansing/antipollution effect. Notably, no clinical signs of intolerance or feeling of discomfort whatsoever were reported by the study subjects.
Immediate and preventive soothing effect Cutaneous irritation is a commonly known and widespread skin condition. AHE potently decreased the duration of lactic acid-induced stinging by 80% in 100% of subjects. In addition, AHE induced a significant decrease in the stinging intensity by 48%, 89% and 100% after 30 seconds, 5 and 15 minutes after AHE application, respectively, as has been reported by 86% to 100% of subjects. AHE also significantly reduced cutaneous reactivity score by approximately 67%, in 97% of subjects after 28 days of use (Fig 12a, 12b, 12c). These results suggest that AHE is an anti-irritant with both immediate and preventive soothing effects. Moreover, AHE induced a significant decrease of
E-Cadherin B1 E-Cadherin B2
Figure 10: Expression rate of E-cadherin after 1% AHE treatment; 1,6-fold and 1,3-fold increase in expression of E-cadherin B1 and E-cadherin B2, respectively, compared to control, i.e. culture medium; (AHE – Alpin Heilmoor Extract, CC – activated charcoal).
Skin Firmness
Skin Visco- elasticity
Skin Plasticity
Cutaneous hydration rate 5”
Cutaneous hydration rate 28d
Grade of Radiance under eye
Ø - 11%/t0, p<0.001 up to -34% Ø - 11%/t0, p<0.001 up to -34% Ø - 12%/t0, p<0.001 up to -31% Ø + 11%/t0, p<0.001 up to +20% Ø + 6%/t0, p<0.001 up to +14% Ø + 17%/t0, p<0.001 up to +30% Effect observed in 43% Effect observed in 67% Effect observed in 48% Effect observed in 81% Effect observed in 53% Effect observed in 67% Figure 11a: Overview of changes in the skin after 28 days of treatment with 2.5% of AHE.
Anti-acne efficacy and cutaneous tolerability Activation of innate immunity via the expression of cytokines by keratinocytes, resulting in the hyperkeratinization of the pilosebaceous unit, plays an essential role in acne formation.13 After 28 days of twice daily application, 1.5%
AHE induced a statistically significant decrease in the number of microcyts, papules and pustules. Moreover, a significant decrease in the total number of lesions (global non-inflammatory and inflammatory) was observed (Figure 14a, 14b, 14c). AHE also induced a decrease in porphyrin expression, which characterises a reduction of susceptibility to acne lesions, though results were not statistically significant. AHE was very well tolerated and about 73% and 82% of subjects stated that the product prevents inflammatory acne if used regularly and reduces inflammatory acne, respectively.
Figure 11b: Pro-Ageing Effect (Eyebag) of 2.5% AHE; D0.
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Figure 11c: Pro-Ageing Effect (Eyebag) of 2.5% AHE; D28.
Conclusion We found AHE to be implicated in the promotion of wound healing factors E-cadherin and paxillin, and the suppression of cytokines involved in inflammation in vitro, and the suppression of oxidative stress and preventing ageing factors. Furthermore, AHE was shown to enhance skin barrier integrity by inducing the expression of two different cytokeratines. In addition, AHE shows to balance the skin microbiome and maintains microbiome diversity and vitality. AHE displays anti- irritant, anti-acne, anti-pollutant, and a pro-ageing property when tested in vivo. AHE was also very well tolerated stressing its beneficial characteristics for future use in different application forms (rinse-off and leave-on).
stinging intensity when applied to capsaicin-treated skin: an average 50% decrease was observed by 55% of subjects as soon as 30 seconds after administration, while 70% of subjects reported an average decrease of 70% of stinging intensity within 3 minutes after application of AHE. There was no difference in the decrease of stinging intensity reported after 6 and 9 minutes upon administration of 2.5% AHE, respectively (Fig 13). A significant decrease by 69% in the duration of stinging was also observed in 90% of subjects. Furthermore, there was a significant improvement by 48% on average in cutaneous reactivity observed in 68% of subjects after 28 days.
PC April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Expression rate (% of Control)
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