72 SKIN CARE
Analysing skin benefits of a heilmoor extract
Stefan Fellner - Premium Organic, Austria
Historically, peloid has been indicated for the treatment of chronic rheumatic processes, degenerative osteoarthrosis, sequelae of osteo- articular injuries, fractures, dislocations, disorders following vasculopathies, dermatological diseases, etc.1
These therapeutic benefits were already
hypothesised centuries ago, for example by Abbot Thomas von Lambach in 1364, and the finding of a medieval bathtub is considered the oldest evidence of a moor bathing facility. Even now, mud therapy (considered as natural pelotherapy) is in practice, such as the popular mud packs and baths practiced at the Dead Sea, Palestina, and the Urumieh Lake, Iran, as well as mud packs and baths that are practiced in rehabilitation centres in Austria, Germany and Hungary. Cosmetic peloids, on the other hand, have a
positive impact on the maintenance of healthy and pro-aged skin. Our objective was to investigate and demonstrate the dermocosmetic properties of Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE). AHE is a micronised dark powder which concentrates the healing properties of medicinal peloid in a pure and potent form. It was sustainably extracted from a natural (organic) peloid of an accredited Austrian healing moor deposit (Heilmoor) at 500m above sea level. We conducted a series of in vitro studies to determine the effect of AHE on skin barrier enhancement, wound healing factors and anti-inflammatory efficacy as well as in vivo clinical studies to ascertain pro-ageing (elasticity, hydration, radiance under eye), soothing, and cleansing efficacy of cosmetic grades
STAPHYLOCOCCUS EPIDERMIDIS -AHE +AHE 1.0%
of Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE). AHE was also investigated for its skin acceptability and future use.
Materials and methods A series of in vitro studies with HaCaT cells and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) to investigate wound healing, skin barrier enhancement and anti-inflammatory efficacy of AHE were conducted. To determine the expression and/or activation of certain molecular factors upon AHE-treatment of cells and in vitro skin models, we performed Western blot assays and MSD multiplexing analyses involving the U-Plex platform. We determined the role of AHE in preventing ageing and suppressing oxidative stress by determining gene expression of AGE receptors and by measuring markers of oxidative damage in Normal Human Fibroblasts (NHDF) and RAW cells. For the respective experiments AHE was dissolved in PBS or DMSO, 100 mg/mL and 200 mg/mL, respectively. An open, intra-individual in vivo efficacy study was conducted to demonstrate the anti-irritant, anti-acne, cleansing/anti-pollutant, pro-ageing and skin tolerability properties of AHE, as well as to determine AHE’s applicability for future use.
Results and discussion AHE preserves skin microbiome and promotes the growth of normal flora: First of all, the primary goal is that cosmetic products must not have a damaging effect on the
CORYNEBACTERIUM AMYCOLATUM -AHE +AHE 1.0% ABSTRACT
Wound healing factors, skin barrier integrity and resistance to inflammation are determining factors for healthy skin. Additionally, a clean, pro-aged skin that is free from irritation and acne is cosmetically attractive. Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE), a natural (organic) active ingredient extracted from Austrian healing Moor (Heilmoor) deposits at 500m above sea level, was investigated for its efficacy in maintaining and enhancing these key-parameters of healthy and beautiful skin. A series of in vitro tests involving HaCaT cells and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) revealed that AHE improves wound healing, enhances membrane barrier integrity and supresses skin inflammation and prevent oxidative stress and ageing. An open, intra-individual in vivo efficacy study confirmed the multiple beneficial effects of AHE: a pronounced pro-ageing effect, remarkable cleansing/anti-pollution efficacy, both, an immediate and a preventive soothing effect, and a convincing anti-acne efficiency. Furthermore, AHE demonstrably balanced the skin microbiome. Notably, AHE was generally very well tolerated and appreciated by study subjects.
skin’s microbiome, meaning that the microorganisms must remain vital (Fig 1) and the natural biodiversity (Fig 2) and the protective function, which is built up and maintained by our skin’s microorganisms, remains unimpaired by the application of a product. AHE-containing skin care products exhibited all of these properties in the test procedure. Furthermore, a growth test showed that
both Staphylococcus and Corynebacterium species, which are central components of our skin microbiome system, grew faster in the presence of AHE than in its absence. This can lead to a faster restoration of normal skin microbiome in dysbiosis or in neurodermatitis, where the skin flora is usually disrupted (Fig 3). Considering these positive results, it would be
conceivable to use AHE in the field of microbiome balancing.
Enhanced skin barrier integrity Cytokeratins 10 (CK10) and 16 (CK16) are essential for skin barrier integrity.2
Figure 1: Maintaining Vitality of the Microbiome with and without 1% AHE. PERSONAL CARE April 2021 To understand the effect of AHE on membrane barrier integrity, we determined
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