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70 NATURALS


by consumers when they feel an emollient. Slip and drag can be described as the following; ■ Feeling of resistance or acceptance of flow ■ Emollients characterised as having “high drag” will have a sticky feel. ■ Emollients with “high slip” or “low drag” will glide easily and nearly feel like oil. As the consumer is “rubbing” the product


onto the skin, the next experience is that of “breakdown” and “rub in.” This sensation occurs through crystallinity interruption or through thermal melting on the skin.


Breakdown “Breakdown” is a measure of how viscosity changes as a function of shear. Physical and thermal shear is encountered any time molecules or particles move past one another. Emollients, to one degree or another, lose viscosity when exposed to shear and increased temperatures through the act of rubbing. Molecular weight distribution and


crystallinity control are essential to this parameter.


Gloss


The final product parameter is gloss, which completes the organoleptic experience. Gloss is a measurement of the light reflected by an emollient. Crystallinity is important, as micro vs macro


crystallinity will have a great effect on gloss. Formulations can be designed as high gloss or matte, depending on the application and the customer’s desire. The final gloss level is impacted by other ingredients used in the finished formulation, including colour additives.


Formulations with plant-based emollients During the development of our natural plant- based emollients, we also discovered that they can be modified using formulary means to meet the desired aesthetics of the product developer. The most important fact is that as the formulations are changed to meet the desired organoleptic experience, the polymorphic stability of the product remains. After the prototype formulations


were evaluated for physical, chemical, and performance characteristics, a set of products were identified as candidates for commercialisation. Since the products are natural in origin, we also had to address the before-mentioned finite carbon distribution


native to natural ingredients. Because of this property, consistency of the raw ingredient was crucial to creating a stable and long-term viable finished emollient. To assure that a rugged formulation was created, the chosen plant-based materials were evaluated from multiple continents and multiple growing seasons to ensure consistency. Through these combined efforts, we now offer a thorough and robust portfolio of all-natural emollients in our SonneNatural® line. The product line has multiple commercially


available grades, similar to the multiple petrolatum grades on the market. The SonneNatural Select Series and 200 Series were developed to meet the needs of formulators to achieve specific organoleptic experiences. In the Select Series, specific oils were added to give a luxurious and unique sensory experience. Not only do the oils add to the sensory


experience, but also help moisturise the skin due to the rich EFAs (Essential Fatty Acids). The three Select Series oils are extra virgin olive oil, jojoba oil and meadowfoam seed oil. The uniqueness of these additions is the actual formulation of the SonneNatural product. A specific liquid-to-solid ratio was developed in order to balance the polymorphic stability. Simply adding an enhancing oil to any


natural product causes an imbalance in stability crystallinity and can cause formulation failure. Extensive research on stability and consumer


preferences has led to the multiple grades being offered for the SonneNatural Select Series. The 200 Series offers yet another group


of organoleptic variations required by today’s formulator. These formulations offer the whole gambit of sensory requirements, while maintaining the crystal integrity. Formulations are available that have multiple hardnesses, rub-in, cushion and every other sensory requirement. And like all Sonneborn’s natural emollient products, the organoleptic experience translates through to the final formulation. This line is Vegan certified, non-irritating


through HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) and CAMVA -14 day (Chorioallantoic Membrane Vascular Assay), and has a Natural Index (NI) less than 1 in accordance with ISO 16128 (product specific NI available). The material has remarkably similar TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) characteristics of petrolatum, and moisturises the skin. The ingredients used are considered non- comedogenic based on the Kligman Scale for Acne Vulgaris.


Conclusion SonneNatural can be used in formulations as an emollient or as a sensory enhancing ingredient that mimics the versatility of a petrolatum or a petroleum jelly. SonneNatural can be used anywhere a petrolatum is used in a formulation. Lip care, skin care, baby care, body wash… the list goes on. This versatile product can be used and has been used successfully in many commercial products found on consumers’ shelves today. The market need was identified in 2007, and we continued to research and perfect the science behind creating effective and versatile natural plant-based emollients over the past decade. We can easily create new grades to provide the formulations and the solutions to issues that may challenge a formulator in the replacement of petroleum- based emollients. Our dedication and belief in our customer’s need and vision enable us to be pioneers in developing natural plant- based emollients to meet today’s formulation challenges.


PERSONAL CARE April 2021


www.personalcaremagazine.com PC


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