ANTI-POLLUTION
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For more standardised protocols, several CROs have implemented specific conditions of the application of the pollutants, under close chambers using standardised polluted dust-like 2.5 pm particles. Thus, the design of the study is adapted depending on the preventive or curative claims. The following claims can be substantiated with
the classical methods and devices for a short or long-term performance: bactericide, cleansing, detoxifying, purifying, soothing, seboregulator, pH regulators, soothing, moisturising, nourishing, anti- UV, anti-age spots, antioxidant, anti-free radical, radiance and skin complexion, protect the skin function barrier… For specific ‘Anti-pollution’ claims we have
identified the following methods. Before any chemical analysis, specific samples of the skin are implemented: stripping (caution to the potential adhesive interaction), swabs or glass sticks:
Protection performance ■ Heavy metal analysis (lead, iron chromium) ■ Particle visualisation mimicking PM deposit
Antioxidant ■ Lipids peroxidation (SQ-OOH, MDA, vitamin E) ■ Proteins oxidation
Detoxifying ■ Oxygenation Measure of transcutaneous partial pressure of O2
Skin complexion and radiance ■ GlossyMeter (C+K), GonioLux (Orion Concept), Samba (Bossa Nova tech), SkinGlossMeter (Delfin), C-Cube (Pixience).
Inflammation ■ Colour measurement by spectrophotometry.
For anti-pollution claims we have identified the
in vivo methods in Table 1. Stripping (caution to the potential adhesive interaction), swabs or glass sticks are the different ways used to collect a superficial piece of skin. Any of these testing methods can be retrieved
with a free access to the Skinobs Clinical Testing Platform.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
In vitro, cell-on-chip and ex-vivo testing: a reliable solution to study cutaneous pollution mechanisms To address the needs for anti-pollution claim substantiation, the major testing labs also developed specific in vitro and ex vivo protocols that objectively evaluate skin exposure to several pollutants. These assays represent an ethical alternative to human testing when induced stresses are harmful: pollution, UV... They can demonstrate the effects in preventing pollutants from adhering to the skin surface, removing pollutants from the skin or in reducing their oxidative impact. Beyond the duration of use that everybody would
like longer and longer, 3D skin models - bioprint or not- and ex vivo testing present undeniable benefits for the anti-pollution evaluation through: ■ The standardised assay conditions ■ The various end points and their combination of assays with multiple action mechanisms (oxidation, ageing, UV stress...), ■ The quantitative and illustrative results (histology, modelling, video). Several types of pollution stress can be applied,
either directly in the cell culture media or by spraying the pollutant on the assay support or in a chamber: Blue light(400 – 470 nm) , UVA, UVB, InfraRed, cigarette smoke, ozone, heavy metals, volatile organic compounds, PM 2.5, particulate matter, inflammation mediators. The main biomarkers that are quantified are
numerous: Cell proliferation, lipid metabolism, carbonylated proteins, antioxidant defence markers, DNA damage, various proteins (barrier function, pigmentation or mitochondrial), inflammation mediators, or protease activity. The choice of the test models depends mainly on the studied mechanism of action. Several methods of analysis can quantify or visualise the effect of ingredients or formulation on the cellular metabolism such as: ■ Proteic and metabolic methods which includes Elisa, HPLC, CPG, flow cytometry, mass spectrometry, photometry, Western Blot, Radiobiochemichal ■ Morphology and imaging methods: 3DLive cell Imager, HTRF, Immuno-histo fluorescence, Immuno- fluorescence chemistry and imaging, electron microscopy
■ Gene expression: Transcriptomic, RT-qPCR, qPCR-array ■ Multi-omics approach: proteomics, metabolomics…
What future for anti-pollution testing? The exposome brings together the internal and external stresses of human life. Since 2020, the vision of anti-pollution has been expanded and now covers new fields such as: bactericide, hydro alcoholic gel stress and mask-wearing ecosystem. Actually, except for bactericide claims, there are no standardised guidelines in any countries. Regarding the consequences of the mask wearing, the CROs around the world adapt the design of the day studies to answer this new use and consumer request. A relevant protocol could give more
information about the standardised or modelled conditions of pollution, the nature of the pollutants, and the ethical considerations in the case of clinical tests. How many apps or websites are now
available to test the pollution in the environment and also to follow the COVID-19 situation? For clinical evaluation, it seems that the
innovations of sensors combined with A.I, the “nomad” way of testing, the “contactless” studies will support in adapting to the threat of consumers’ personal care routines. The ultra- personalisation trend with the health crisis will certainly influence the future of the new anti- pollution cosmetics development. Beyond the biometrological measures
and clinical evaluations to highlight the anti- pollution effects, it seems that the objectivation of emotions constitutes a new territory of tests. Through, among other things, conducted interviews, mood charts, eye tracking or verbal analysis for the behavioural aspect or through physiological measures such as: functional MRI of the brain, measurement of heart and respiratory rhythm, the dosage of salivary cortisol in others, innovative studies on the protection effects of pollution can be carried out. Their results will provide the most conventional allegations with a sensory and emotional approach, so much needed in these times of social distancing and barrier gestures.
PC April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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