66 ANTI-POLLUTION TABLE 1: Testing list for anti-pollution
Timing of action
Objective Studied effect Quantitative method* Detoxifying
Oxygenation Measure of O2 transcutaneous partial pressure
1. Skin detox
Complexion and radiance
Tissue oxygenation Anti-oxidant
CURATIVE ACTION
Hydration
2. Rebalance the skin
Omics analysis
Skin Surface
CorlorFace (Newtone technologies), Goniolux (Orion), Skin GlossyMeter (C+K), SkinGlossMeter
(Delfin), GP150 (Seelab), Samba & Salsa (Bossa Nova Vision), DermaLab Gloss (Cortex), Diffuse
Reflectance Spectrometry, Observ520® (Innofaith)… Periflux (Perimed)
Lipidic peroxidation (SQ-OOH, MDA, vitamin E) Proteins oxidation (Phylogene)
Corneometer and MoistureMap(C+K), DPM 9003 (NovaTech), Moisturemeter SC/D/epiD (Delfin), Epsilon (Biox), DermaLab (Cortex)
MS/MS-16srDNA-PCR genomics, proteomics, transcriptomics, metabolomics (Phylogene)
DermaTOP-HE-60 (Eotech), SpectraCam
(Newtone Technologies), C-Cube (Pixience), Visioscan and MoistureMap MM 100 (C+K), TiVi 60 Skin Damage Visualizer (Wheelsbridge) ,Antera 3D (Miravex)
Soothing Sensitivity Barrier
function via TEWL
PREVENTIVE ACTION
3. Protect and isolate the skin
Particle visualisation Skin Structure Heavy metal
Sonde Raman (Horiba Jobin), Atomic Force Microscopy
HPLC analysis (Lead, Iron Chromium) * Retrieve the details of the methods and the testing Lab on the skinobs platform.
How to classify these harmful impacts in the short and long term? The resulting skin disorders are caused by the oxidative stress of the pollutants: ■ Short-term: Accumulation of toxins, alteration of the barrier function, a decrease of the skin resistance to UV, proteins lipids, and DNA oxidation, modification of the [acid] pH, inflammation, occluding of the pores, dehydration, lack of oxygen, decrease of the cell turnover, depletion of antioxidants, sebum overproduction. ■ Long-term: wrinkles, age spots, acne, dull and sagging, sensitivity These skin damages could be summed up in
a few words: Ageing, dark spots, and sensitivity including multi-factorial consequences in the
PERSONAL CARE April 2021
stratum corneum and the epidermis and dermis layer - DNA damages, protein carbonylation, enzymatic alteration, inflammation mediators, oxidative process, lipid metabolism, cell metabolism, dermis structure.
Skin care: 3 steps to combat pollution Finally, the cosmetic ingredients or formulations have 3 main objectives to keep the skin pure: ■ Skin detox with a curative action: cleansing, detoxifying, exfoliating, purifying, oxygenising ■ Rebalance the skin with a curative action: soothing, moisturising, nourishing, pH regulator, sebo-regulator, complexion, microcirculation, anti-ageing, anti-sagging ■ Protect and isolate the skin with a preventive action: bactericide, anti-UV/IR/anti-
blue light, antioxidant, anti-free radicals, anti-particle, barrier integrity, anti- inflammatory, anti-spot.
How to assess clinically the performance of anti-pollution cosmetics and actives? To evaluate the ‘anti-pollution’ performance of cosmetics, three criteria of the protocols are often considered: preventive or curative efficacy, short or long-term action, real life condition or controlled pollution conditions. The product is applied under standardised
conditions on the forearms with the opportunity of a non-treated zone or on the face. The subjects can stay under in situ pollution environment in a polluted city.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Colour measurement by spectrophotometry: Chromameter
Neurometer® CPT ( Neurotron CPT (Neurotron), Scorage by dermatologist, Stigging
Aquaflux (Biox) Vapometer (Delfin), Tewameter (C+K), Dermalab-TEWL (Cortex),
Particles deposit and photo analysis
Optical multiphoton tomography
Vivascope (Mavig), Vivosight
(Michelson)
TiVi80 (Wheelsbridge), Visia CR (Canfield). Visioscan (C+K). 3D Clarity (BTBP)
Videomicroscope & Dermascope
Scorage by expert, Questionnaire on naive panel
Scorage by expert, Questionnaire on naive panel
Questionnaire on naive panel
SquameScan (Heiland), FibroTX (Eotech)
Videomicroscope & Dermascope
Scorage by expert, Questionnaire on naive panel
Semi-quantitative methos* Visual method*
Videomicroscope & Dermascope
Sensory evaluation Scorage & Questionnaire
Scorage by expert, Questionnaire on naive panel
Scorage by expert, Questionnaire on naive panel
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