HAIR CARE
The natural solution for damaged and curly hair
Lorena Sánchez, Cristina Thiebaut, Cobiosa- Industrias Asociadas S.L.
The curliness, colour, and cross-sectional parameters of hair samples differ across human ethnic groups. Although some proteins, keratins, and
molecular structures, including amino acids, have common features, studies have shown that the amount of lipids present in African hair – as a model of very curly hair - is lower than in other groups, as well as its distribution. After UV irradiation, African hair samples
exhibited more damage because lack of integral hair lipids:1 Hair lipids are composed of fatty acids,
cholesterol sulfate, ceramides, and cholesterol. Together, these account for 0.7-1.3% of the total chemical content of hair.2,3 Integral hair lipids are located in the cell
membrane complex (CMC) of hair cuticles and are important in the maintenance of hair integrity due to qualities including hydrophobicity, moisturisation, and stiffness. Integral lipids of the hair and epidermal lipids of the skin have similar barrier functions.2,4 Forms of hair damage include physical
stress, such as shampooing and combing, and chemical stress, like dyeing and bleaching. The most damaging among these factors is continuous exposure to sunlight. Ultraviolet (UV) light-induced hair damage is difficult to avoid. Continuous UV-light exposure results in dryness, roughness, sun-bleaching, and breakage due to photo-oxidation.5 Ethomega is an exclusive and exotic oil
blend that combines the soothing, antioxidant properties of Chia seed oil with the powerful nourishing properties of Sacha Inchi oil. It is loaded with a high content of
polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) (Especially concentrated in α-linolenic acid - Ω 3); High concentration of linoleic acid (Ω 6) and oleic acid (Ω 9); and high concentration of tocopherols (delta and especially gamma, which are not found in other botanical oils). Chia seed oil is an extra virgin oil, of botanical
origin, extracted by cold pressing from the seeds of Salvia hispanica, a plant cultivated in the Peruvian mountains, historically known as “Chian” or “Chia “. For centuries, the ancient indigenous Inca and
Mayan civilizations of South America knew of the incredible therapeutic benefits of Chia. It was a sacred food for them; in fact, “Chia” is a Mayan word that means “strength”. Today, Chia seed is being rediscovered and is known as a Superfood. Plukenetia volubilis
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(Sacha Inchi) is a native plant from the high humid forests of the South American Andean region. The seeds are prized for their oil content: 35-60% of which 90% is unsaturated. It also has high protein content (33%). This study aimed to assess the ability of
Ethomega (now referred to as ‘the oil blend’) to protect ethnic curly hair against breakage and loss of colour, after exposure to UV radiation and improve its nutrition, shine and health, thanks to the contribution of its polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamin content, which restore the internal hair architecture by replenishing the necessary lipids for correct maintenance of the cell membrane complex (CMC). Our results confirm that the oil blend shows a potent protective and nourishing hair activity.
Evaluation of the anti-breakage efficacy Protocol The present study aimed to assess the hair anti-breakage efficacy of a shampoo formulation dosed with 1% oil blend compared to a placebo shampoo. Two African hair locks were prepared and
equilibrated after being washed with either shampoo or placebo for 1 minute, twice. At each analysis timepoint, a set of 12
hair fibres were removed from the lock and individually attached to the Force dynamometer (AFG 10N, Mecmesin) universal break machine supports. The measurements were performed after lock equilibration, after the first wash, and after the second wash. Normalised hair fibre breakage force
(maximum breakage force/fibre diameter) was obtained for each fibre and timepoint. To evaluate the true normalised hair breakage
ABSTRACT
Curly hair has particular characteristics in elasticity and shape that require a special and different care. Curly hair is more fragile than straight hair and therefore requires specific care. Every day, hair is exposed to a series
of external aggressions: brushing, friction, straightening treatments, heat irons, colouring, perms, pollution, UV radiation, etc... Ethomega, with high content in Omega
3, is an excellent natural active ingredient for promoting faster and healthier hair growth, nourishing the follicles to stimulate their growth and shine. Ethomega has proven to restore the hair
lipids barrier, increase gloss and avoid hair colour fade after UV irradiation, making hair more resistant to breakage and split ends. Ethomega has high concentrations of
delta and gamma-tocopherol, difficult to find in other botanical oils. Both PUFA and tocopherol content, shield
the hair fibres creating a protective film that prevents protein loss caused by UV damage, retaining moisture, preventing photo- oxidation, and providing the necessary lipids for the specificities of this type of hair.
variation a relative transformation with T0 was performed and a comparison between the two products was calculated.
Results The application of the placebo shampoo presented a non-significant 6.8% increase in normalised hair breakage force. The application of 1% oil blend shampoo
induced a statistically significant 27.5% increase in normalised hair breakage force. The comparison between the two products shows a statistically significant difference after the 2 washing procedures. In conclusion, the oil blend improved hair breakage resistance up to 27.5%:
Evaluation of the UV protection capacity Excessive sun exposition is the most frequent cause of hair shaft structural impairment. Dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, loss of colour, de-creased shine, stiffness, and brittleness of hair are caused by sun exposure.6
April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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