MARINE INGREDIENTS
the external sides of the helixes (more electro repulsions leaves more space between all the helixes which results in a more loose network). Iota exhibits thixotropic behaviour and is suitable to get a nice elastic gel network. For lambda carrageenan, heat is not required to
solubilise, as it is cold water soluble. This makes it well suited in personal care applications where no heat processing is desired. Lambda carrageenan gives thickened solutions and imparts viscosity in aqueous phase. High number of sulfate groups inhibit the 3D network formation due to the strong repulsion of sulfate groups thus a thickened solution is obtained and not a gel. Carrageenans, given their structures are
sensitive to low pH. Carrageenan solutions may lose viscosity and gel strength depending on the pH range they are exposed to. Overall, below pH 5.5 the autohydrolysis process starts. Below pH 4.5 significant changes can be seen which can be managed with other ingredients in the formula. However, below pH 3.5 carrageenans will not remain stable. It is important to note that once carrageenan
has been gelled, the system is extremely robust. In case there are low pH ingredients in formulations that need to be added, it is recommended that it is added towards the end of the batch formulation. Carrageenans are anionic and thus needs to be
carefully formulated if any cationic ingredients are to be included in formulations such as conditioners. In addition to pH sensitivity, carrageenans can be sensitive when heavy metals or high concentration of alcohol are included in formulations. With personal care and cosmetic products,
transparency matters. Rinse-off products like facewash, shampoo, bodywash can be transparent or creamy. For visual impact, transparent products are well liked. Kappa carrageenan in a hot process condition will give better transparency. Iota carrageenan in hot process will also give clear, transparent gels. Lambda can be processed cold or hot but transparency can be better in hot condition compared to cold processing. As mentioned above, electrolytes have
a great impact on viscosity and gel strength of kappa and iota carrageenan. However, addition of electrolytes can also have an impact on transparency and appearance of these carrageenans as well. While kappa carrageenan reacts positively to electrolytes, the transparency is reduced. In iota, similar to kappa, while viscosity and gel strength is boosted, transparency, smoothness and appearance can be impacted. For formulators, the challenge remains to find the right balance on desired properties while creating and formulating products that fit functional properties requirements while meeting customer demands. Type of electrolyte, mono or divalent
salts also have an impact on carrageenans. As compared to sodium and potassium monovalent salts, divalent salts result in higher viscosity. Divalent calcium salts induces divalent bridging between adjacent chains and thus results in increased viscosity sometimes almost 2 times more than monovalent salts. This can be a beneficial property and formulators can take advantage by including not just electrolytes but
www.personalcaremagazine.com KAPPA OSO3 - CH2 OH O O OH IOTA OSO3- CH2 OH O O OH LAMBDA OH CH2 OH O O OSO3- Figure 2: Kappa, Iota and Lambda Carrageenan.
even ingredients like preservatives (example – sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate) which will boost viscosity of carrageenans in addition to preserving the emulsion without disrupting the network. Carrageenan also shows affinity for glycerin and a good boost in viscosity can be obtained if glycerin concentrations higher than 20% are used in formulations. Iota and lambda carrageenan exhibit shear thinning properties which have a dual advantage. The first is related to packaging. When shear is applied, the product with carrageenan is easy to pump as it decreases in viscosity showing shear thinning behaviour. The second advantage is with application of the product on skin. When shear is applied in the form of rubbing, the product is much easier to spread and gives good skin coverage with a non-tacky, soft and smooth sensory. Carrageenans are very versatile molecules
and with kappa, iota and lambda provides a range of textures, viscosity, gelling and thickening properties that formulators can take advantage of in creating various product types. Carrageenans can be formulated in skin care products like serums, gels, emulsions, creams, lotions, toners. In skin cleansing products like face wash, bodywash, shaving gels, face masks. In hair care products like shampoos, leave on hair gels, styling hair gel. Carrageenans have been widely used in oral care products like toothpaste and mouthwash.
Sustainability To help ensure a long-term sustainable red seaweed supply chain, Cargill has launched the Red Seaweed Promise™. The program is specifically
designed to address key sustainability challenges for the harvesting and cultivation of red seaweed, while enhancing producer livelihoods, supporting local communities and conserving the marine environment. The program also answers industry and consumers’ needs for more sustainable ingredients, with a commitment to source 60 percent sustainable red seaweed by 2025. Red seaweed production is critical to
the prosperity of approximately one million producers and their communities. Today, these producers face multiple challenges, from climate change and extreme weather events to inefficient farming and harvesting practices, which have a significant impact on the quality of red seaweed. The Red Seaweed Promise supports producer’s prosperity by providing the training, coaching and tools producers need to adopt environmental and safe production best practices while committing to sustainable marine and coastal ecosystems. The Red Seaweed Promise leverages
Cargill’s strong partnerships with producers and suppliers to increase traceability and transparency in the supply chain for its customers. Proforest, a leading non-profit group offering consultancy services in sustainable sourcing of natural resources, supported Cargill in the definition of a credible industry standard evaluation tool and conducted verifications in the regions where the company sources red seaweed. Results are used to set region-specific continuous improvement plans, focusing efforts on four priority areas: empowering seaweed producers, improving production and harvest practices, supporting sourcing communities and strengthening partnerships.
HO OSO3- O OSO3- O n O O OSO3- O n O O OH O n
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PC April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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