34 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS


Evaluation of trans-epidermal water loss The skin barrier regulates the water loss through evaporation. When this barrier is damaged, the trans-epidermal water loss increases. Conversely, a reinforced barrier corresponds to a lower trans- epidermal water loss. Trans-epidermal water loss was measured


with a Tewameter. The results obtained for the measurement of TEWL at D0 and D28 are illustrated in Figure 13. The results obtained show that TEWL


decreases significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient and placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient.


Hydration assessment The measurement of the skin’s hydration was performed using a Corneometer. The results obtained for hydration at D0 and D28 are illustrated in Figure 14. The results obtained show that the hydration


increases significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient and placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient.


Biochemical evaluations The following biochemical evaluations were performed: From a swab: ■ Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs) ■ The NMFs content provides information on the hydration status of the skin. Ceramides ■ The ceramide content provides information on the condition of the cutaneous barrier. ■ Inflammatory status via the quantification of


Cytokines: ●


● IL1α ● IL8


CERAMIDES VALUES COMPARED D0-D28 LS 2500 2000 1500 1000 132.4 500 0 Active Ingredient 3%


Figure 16: Illustrations of the amount of ceramides quantified on D0 and D28. LS: p:<0.5


PERSONAL CARE April 2021 Placebo 136.4 144.6 137.1 p=0.4258 p=0.1486 LS


D0 ■ D28■


IL1RA HYDRATION EVOLUTION


70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


+10.3%***


+2.7% [NS]


42.73 47.13 43.13 44.31


15 10 5 0


-5 Active Ingredient 3% Placebo Active Ingredient 3% Figure 14: Illustrations of the hydration results obtained on D0 and D28. ***p:<0,0001


NMFs EVOLUTION D0-D28 +11.3%


400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0


-8.2%


NMFs EVOLUTION D0-D28 ALGAENIA vs PLACEBO


60 40 20 0


249.5 277.7 256.2 235.2


-20 -40 -60


Active Active Ingredient 3% Placebo Ingredient 3% Figure 15: Illustrations of the amount of NMFs quantified on D0 and D28. *** p:<0.001


From a D-squame: ■ Nile Red/Involucrin Labelling


SWAB biochemical evaluations The results obtained for NMFs, Ceramides and cytokines at D0 and D28 are illustrated in Figures 15 to 19. The results obtained show that the quantity


of NMFs increases significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient while this quantity decreases significantly with the placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient. The results obtained showed that the quantity of ceramides decreases with placebo, and that


the active ingredient compensates this decrease (however, the evolution between D0 and D28 for the placebo and the active ingredient are not significant). The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient. The results obtained show that the quantity


of IL1RA decreases significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient and placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient. The results obtained show that the quantity of IL1α decreases significantly between D0 and


DO-D28 IL1RA EVOLUTION S


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


S Placebo 28.2% +18%*** -20.9% Placebo D28-D0 HYDRATION EVOLUTION


4.40% +6.4%*** 1.17%


-15.9% -24.1%


58.0 44.0 Active Ingredient 3%


Figure 17: Illustrations of the amount of IL1RA quantified on D0 and D28. S: p<0.05


www.personalcaremagazine.com


62.2 52.3 Placebo


∑ Cermides (ug/100mg protein)


NMFs (µg/mg de prot.)


Hydratation A.U.


∑ Cermides (ug/100mg protein)


NMFs (µg/mg de prot.)


Hydration A.U.


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