32 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
GBA RAB11A HAS2 Barrier HAS3 Hydration PADI1 BLMH CASP14 NMF
Figure 8: Effect of CAP extract on the level of gene expression of barrier and hydration markers (*p<0.05 vs Control - Student’s t test).
the genes involved in NMF formation (Natural Moisturising Factor) (Fig 8): PADI1 (Peptidyl arginine deiminase, type I), BLMH (Bleomycin Hydrolase), CASP14 (Caspase 14) and FLG (Filaggrin). The major function of NMF is to maintain an optimal water level in the stratum corneum. A well-known source of NMF constituents is filaggrin.11
Stimulation of hyaluronic acid production Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a member of the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family. GAGs are linear chains of polysaccharides. Six types of GAG are involved in structural and physiological regulation functions.12
charge, GAGs display significant water retention capacities and contribute to maintaining water content in the skin compartment.12-13 HA is the only GAG consisting exclusively
of oside molecules (it contains neither protein body nor sulphate group). It plays a major role in epidermal thickening: it binds strongly to water, forming a dense viscoelastic network that fills any extracellular voids, thus contributing to skin density, cohesion, hydration and elasticity.
ERYTHEMA INTENSITY AT 20MIN-TiVi t20’-t0 75 70 65 60 55 50 Non treated Placebo Active Ingredient 3%
Figure 10: Active ingredient/Placebo/Untreated area comparisons. NS: non-significant difference, * p:<0.05, ** p:<0.01
PERSONAL CARE April 2021 -9.8%* vs placebo
Figure 9: Effect of CAP extract on hyaluronic acid production in NHEKs (*p<0.05; *** p<0.001 vs. Control – one-factor ANOVA followed by Dunnett test, GraphPad Prism 5 software).
Results Chlamydomonas acidophila (CAP) extract increased hyaluronic acid production significantly (+57%*) (Fig 9). These effects are correlated to the results observed in gene expression on mRNA HAS2 and HAS3.
Due to their strong negative
Conclusion These different results tend to demonstrate that Chlamydomonas acidophila extract could contribute to improve the barrier function and favour the hydration of the skin. Chlamydomonas acidophila (CAP) extract could therefore protect the skin, by improving the cutaneous barrier, limiting the penetration of allergens or irritating and sensitising foreign substances.
Evaluation of the protective/Anti- redness and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the active ingredient versus placebo Trial design ■ Double blind study ■ Comparative active ingredient vs placebo, randomised study
Population 19 healthy female subjects with Caucasian type (phototype I to III), between 18 and 60 years (mean age 38±3), were analysed for this study. The 19 subjects applied the active ingredient in a cream and the placebo on 2 defined areas. An untreated area was also defined.
ns -12.3%** vs non-treated skin
Evaluation of blood flow by TIVI The method used by the TiVi 700 is based the green light, strongly absorbed by blood vessel cells, while that of red light is moderately absorbed. Using a polarised light source, the method frees itself of specular reflection to consider only the light sent back by the skin tissue.
The apparatus thus produces a map of
the intensity with each pixel representing a concentration in blood cells of the skin. A decrease in the intensity of the
concentration in blood cells of the skin reflects an anti-inflammation effect.
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Methods of use and conduct of the study The products were applied by the subjects themselves, at home, 2 times daily (morning and evening) for 14 days from D-14 to D0t0 on each area defined in the forearms. After 14 days, the subjects went back to the clinical unit. The D0t0 baseline measures were taken at that time. A last application of the products is performed. A chemical erythema is then induced on each area with a 0.1% Methyl-Nicotinate solution. The measures on each area were then performed after 20 minutes (maximum intensity) recorded D0t20 and 50 minutes (30 minutes after maximum erythema) recorded D0t50 following the induction of the erythema (Fig 10). Two parameters were analysed for each parameter evaluated: ■ The variation between D0t20 and D0t0 indicative of the preventive effect on the appearance of the erythema of each product. ■ The variation between D0t50 and D0t20 indicative of the preventive effect on the evolution of the erythema of each product.
FLG 232%* 214%* 191%* 123%* 0.400 0.200 0.000 Control Retinoic Acid 10-7M CAP 0.05% dm
Control ■ CAP 0.05% dm■ 319%
229% 203% 147% 0.800 0.600 1.200 +103%*** 1.000 +57%***
Gene Expression (Relative Qty) Red blood flow A.U. ( t20’-t0)
Hyaluronic Acid (ng/ml) per Protein qty (µg/mL)
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