FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
Algae-derived active for sensitive skin
G. Boyer, S. Brédif, A. Ferret, S. Leclere-Bienfait, M. Le Roux - Laboratoires Expanscience, France
Chlamydomonas acidophila (Fig 1) is a green microalga measuring 7 to 12µm in diameter, constituted of two mobile flagella that allow it to move in its environment in order to use light through its photosynthetic metabolism (biomass synthesis from H2
O and CO2 ).
This particular species, having inherited the name “acidophila”, has been able to adapt to living in extreme environments; acid rivers and volcanic lakes, subjected to very acid pH levels (0.5<pH<3.5), major temperature changes (5-45°C) as well as strong heavy metal concentrations, including nickel. These so-called extremophile microalgae are subjected to various stresses including heat, oxidative, osmotic and water stress. A French biotechnology company, an expert
in microalgae culture, cultivates today microalgae including Chlamydomonas acidophila via a patented and innovative technology, biphasic flow tubular horizontal photobioreactor (PBR) (Fig 2).
This technology mimics the extreme
conditions of the natural environment of the microalga to preserve all its properties. To adapt to this hostile environment, this microscopic plant produces numerous molecules with known cosmetic properties, for sensitive skin. The biological activity of Chlamydomonas
acidophila (CAP) extract was demonstrated on several parameters involved in the inflammatory and sensitising response, through various in vitro and clinical studies. Its efficacy on the barrier function and hydration has also been demonstrated in vitro. The results presented in this file, are given
as % extract dry matter (DM). For example, 0.05% (DM) Chlamydomonas acidophila (CAP) extract corresponds to around 2.65% of the active ingredient (Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Chlamydomonas Acidophila Extract).
Anti-inflammatory activity against different irritating or sensitising stress factors
The inflammatory response is the normal, immediate and transient response of the body with respect to any environmental aggression. However, under certain pathological or physiological conditions, this inflammatory reaction may be exacerbated, poorly controlled and may result in clinical signs such as itching, redness, sensation of heat and sometimes may even lead to tissue damage. In the skin, keratinocytes are some of the first
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cells to be involved in initiating the inflammatory reaction in response to environmental aggression. The keratinocyte “attacked” will then release:
■ primary (IL1α, IL1β or TNFα) or secondary (IL8) cytokines which will induce a cascade of reactions involving the immune system. ■ prostaglandins (PGE), which belong to the prostanoid family. The prostaglandin synthesis pathway which leads to the synthesis of PGE2 and other PGEs is induced by inflammatory stimuli.
The anti-inflammatory effect of CAP extract
was evaluated against different stress factors: chemical, irritating and sensitising.
Inflammatory activity against a PMA chemical stress factor The anti-inflammatory activity of Chlamydomonas acidophila (CAP) extract was evaluated using a keratinocyte inflammation model induced by a treatment with PMA (Phorbol 12-Myristate 13-Acetate), chemical agent that induces inflammation. The release of TNFα (Tumour Necrosis Factor alpha) cytokines and Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) was analysed.
Results Chlamydomonas acidophila extract (dry matter – dm), in pre-treatment for 24h at different concentrations, significantly decreased TNFα and
ABSTRACT
Born from a close collaboration between two French companies, the active ingredient Algaenia®, made from the green gold produced by the culture ofChlamydomonas acidophila (Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Chlamydomonas Acidophila Extract) was developed through a biotechnological process (enzymatic hydrolysis). Algaenia®, a 100% made-in-France active ingredient, is thus bio-inspired from the ecosystem of this microalgae: as it prospered in very inhospitable waters, the resulting peptides allow the skin to withstand the harsh conditions of its environment.
PGE2 release and therefore demonstrated an anti-inflammatory action against PMA (Fig 3).
Anti-inflammatory activity against SDS irritating stress factor The anti-inflammatory activity of Chlamydomonas acidophila (CAP) extract was evaluated using an inflammation model induced by a treatment with SDS (Sodium Dodecyl Sulphate) on reconstituted epidermises. SDS is an anionic surfactant commonly used as an emulsifying agent in cleaning products. SDS is also a physical agent that provokes skin irritation.1-3
Results Under these conditions, CAP extract significantly inhibited the over-production of TNFα (Fig 4).
Anti-inflammatory activity against nickel sensitising and pollutant stress factor Approximately 10 to 15% of the population suffers from metal contact hypersensitivity.4
Nickel is
the major cause of allergic contact dermatitis in the population, with a worldwide prevalence of approximately 8.6%. Nickel is a metal used in many industrial and
Figure 1: Schematic structural organisation and photosynthetic activity of Chlamydomonas acidophila.
consumption products; it is practically impossible to avoid it totally in daily life. Nickel contact dermatitis can represent a major morbidity, especially in patients with chronic eczema.5 The Nickel ions released by different alloys are potential allergens which can result in skin inflammation.4 The skin is a common site for contact allergy or hypersensitivity to highly reactive small
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