FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
moisturisation properties – essential for the health of the skin. Our skin acts like a natural water reservoir, meaning that skin barrier disruptions can lead to dehydration: water passes from the dermis to the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface. This water evaporation contributes to a variety of unwanted skin conditions, including discomfort, fine lines and wrinkles, and dull and flaky skin. The three polymers comprising the
innovative patch technology form a protective and comforting mesh on the surface of sensitive skin to prevent water evaporation. Sacran, enclosed within the patch, has impressive water-attracting properties, retaining more than 6,000 times its own weight in water and offering a water-attracting ability five times better than hyaluronic acid.6
It therefore helps
to increase the skin’s natural water retention capacity, keeping it hydrated. This effect has been demonstrated
ex vivo on human skin biopsies using dielectric conductivity measurement (Tagami test). As a rule of thumb: the higher the moisturisation level of the stratum corneum, the higher the conductivity. In total, four hydrogels were tested: a placebo formula, 2% sacran extract patch, the molecular patch without sacran, and sacran on its own (the latter two in a dose equivalent to the sacran extract patch at 2%). Measurements were taken 30 minutes, one hour, four hours and six hours after application. For all four timestamps, the sacran extract patch performed best, offering immediate, intense moisturisation of the upper layers of the epidermis lasting at least until 6 hours after application (Fig 4).
Conclusion In an increasingly hectic world, boosting mental health has become the top priority for many consumers. With its innovative Sacred Patch, BASF can help manufacturers to develop effective skin care products that promote emotional wellbeing while addressing common
Ingredients INCI Placebo hydrogel ■ Scared Patch ■ Scared Patch without sacran ■ Sacran ■
200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
-20 treatment Before (**) x1.7 x3 (*) (**)
Statistic: Mean ± SEM n=10 Student t test or Mann-Whitney vs placbo (*) p<0.05 (**) p<0.01
27
(*)
0.5 hour
1 hour
4 hour
6 hour
Figure 4: Impact on moisturisation level using dielectric conductivity measurement: comparison between a placebo formula, Sacred Patch®, the molecular patch technology and sacran.
signs of sensitive skin. Ex vivo, the active ingredient has been shown to help stimulate the release of the neuropeptide oxytocin – a wellness mediator – by as much as 40% in epidermal cells. A comprehensive in vivo study confirmed that the application of Sacred Patch led to a perceptible uplift in volunteers’ moods, with a significant improvement versus the placebo. Since sensitive skin is not only a cause but also a consequence of low spirits, Sacred Patch sets out to break this cycle by helping to inhibit the keratinocyte-induced release of the inflammatory messenger IL-8. Finally, the new technology demonstrated outstanding moisturisation results, preventing water evaporation and helping to keep the skin hydrated for at least six hours after application. Compliant with ISO 16128, Sacred Patch is 99.2% of natural origin.
PC
References 1 Ohki K, Kanesaki Y, Suzuki N, et al. Physiological properties and genetic analysis related to exopolysaccharide (EPS) production in the fresh-water unicellular cyanobacterium
FORMULATION 1: JAPAN’S SECRET COMFORTING SKIN SERUM Phase
A Eumulgin® VL 75 Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® Sensoft Myritol® 331
Cegesoft® PS 6 Cosmedia® SP
B Water, demin. Preservative Glycerin
C
Sacred Patch® BC10022
Perfume
Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Cosmedia® Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate Propylheptyl Caprylate Cocoglycerides
Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] Sodium Polyacrylate Aqua
Glycerin
Aqua, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharides
Parfum
% w/w 1.50
1.00 3.00
3.00 2.00 1.00 1.00
82.35 q.s.
3.00 2.00 0.15
Procedure: Heat phases A and B at 75°C. Add phase A into phase B while mixing. Allow to cool to room temperature under gentle mixing. Add phase C at 30°C. Properties: pH value (23°C): 6.20 Viscosity:(Brookfield; RVT; spindle TC, Helipath; 20 rpm; 23°C): 60000 mPa s
www.personalcaremagazine.com B Ingredients
A Water, demin. Preservative
Aphanothece sacrum (Suizenji Nori). The Journal of General and Applied Microbiology 2019; 65(1): 39-46.
2 Mintel, 2019: Health Management Trends – US January 2019. Available at: https://reports.
mintel.com/display/940342/ [Accessed: 23 July 2020].
3 Fisher A. 2020. Menopause: A New Personal Care Journey. Mintel.
4 Uvnäs-Moberg K, Handlin L, Petersson M. Self- soothing behaviors with particular reference to oxytocin release induced by non-noxious sensory stimulation. Frontiers in Psychology 2015; 5: 1529.
5 Fragkaki F, Cima M. The effect of oxytocin administration on empathy and emotion recognition in residential youth: A randomized, within-subjects trial. Hormones and Behaviour 2019; 114: 104561.
6 Okajima M, Bamba T, Kaneso Y. Supergiant Ampholytic Sugar Chains with Imbalanced Charge Ratio Form Saline Ultra-absorbent Hydrogels. Macromolecules 2008; 41(12): 4061-4064.
FORMULATION 2: LOVE & TENDERNESS SOFT CREAM Phase
INCI Aqua
Hispagel® 200 NS Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate 1,3-Butanediol Edeta® BD Cetiol® CC
Butylene Glycol Disodium EDTA
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetiol® Sensoft Cosmedia® SP
C
Sacred Patch® BC10022
Propylheptyl Caprylate Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Aqua, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Aphan- othece Sacrum Polysaccharides
% w/w 74.25
q.s.
10.00 5.00 0.05 4.00
4.00 0.70
2.00
Procedure: Mix ingredients of A homogeneously at room temperature. Add Phase B into A while stirring. When A+B is homogeneous, add Phase C while stirring. Properties: pH value (23°C): 5.8 Viscosity:(Brookfield; RVT; spindle TC, Helipath; 5 rpm; 23°C): 62000 mPa s Stable 3 months at 4°C, RT, 40°C, 45°C
April 2021 PERSONAL CARE
35 -10
51 2
95 32
149 88
17 -2
Increase in dielectric conductivity vs untreated control
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