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22 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS


designed for use in rinse off applications that is 100% biodegradable, has excellent foaming and cleansing properties, and is pleasant and mild to the skin. Manufactured with an all-natural, biotechnological process, Rheance One allows customers to create high-performance beauty and personal care products that adhere to the highest standards for sustainability. Rheance One combines powerful cleansing


and excellent skin compatibility with a high degree of environmental compatibility. It is 100% based on natural renewable ingredients (sugar) (INCI: Glycolipids). Since Rheance One is 100% biodegradable, it contributes to the reduction of waste in natural water and marine ecosystems. It exhibits low toxicity to aquatic organisms and has a low potential for bioaccumulation. The cleansing performance and solubilisation properties of Rheance One can be fine-tuned by pH adjustment. Rheance One is an effective treatment for blemished skin due to its sebum reduction properties. Attributes include: powerful cleansing and


efficient foaming; extremely mild; effective solubilisation of essential oils, fragrances; excellent skin compatibility; pleasant sensory benefits with a dense and creamy foam that rinses easily from skin; sugar based, 100% renewable raw materials; 100% biodegradable, low aquatic toxicity; easy to handle, highly concentrated, hard water resistant. Sucranov SF from Jarchem is a high


performing, ready-to-use performance system of mild surfactants that are nature-based, sulfate free and environmentally friendly, meeting the needs of many consumers who desire cleaner and gentler formulations. In the Hamilton Beach Foam Test,


Sucranov SF exhibits better foam stability and foam heights than competitive sulfate-free surfactants. It also has great foam density, excellent lather, and conditioned skin-feel after rinsing. Sucranov SF is perfect for formulations that boost luxurious feel. Typically, Sucranov SF is used with Jarplex


SPG to add the superior conditioning properties of Jarplex SPG. Applications include: ready-to-use


surfactant blend; sulfate-free formulations; hand washes; body washes; face washes; shampoos. Borage Oil has seen surging demand in skin


and hair care applications, due to its powerful natural hydration. Oil is harvested from the Borage plant, which has a short cycle of less than 4 months, making the plant an ideal rotation crop. The ingredient is finding use as a food


supplement thanks to its nutritional profile, but its most promising area for growth lies in personal care and cosmetic formulations. Borage Oil is known to restore moisture and smoothness to dry and damaged skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss. Its unique range of natural benefits sets it apart from many of its contemporary alternatives, and the Kerfoot Group has predicted that its growth is set to accelerate through 2021 as the personal care


PERSONAL CARE April 2021


sector’s ‘best kept secret’ finds a strong foothold in new formulations. Consumers today are putting a close focus on nutritional content. Borage Oil shines here, with impressive gamma linoleic acid (GLA) content. The versatile oil can prove a powerful addition to personal care formulations as it is a natural hydrator and is also a mild anti- inflammatory that is kind to sensitive skin. Seppic, in partnership with Vitroscreen,


developed one in vitro epidermis model in order to evaluate the tolerance of ingredients on mechanically impaired skin. Starting from a standard Reconstructed Human Epidermis (SkinEthic RHE), the stratum corneum surface was mechanically abraded to impair the barrier function and increase sensitivity to irritation. The tested products, the negative control (PBS) and positive control (SDS) were then applied in order to evaluate their impact on the abraded epidermis. The following parameters were evaluated: ■ Cellular viability, assessed by MTT test, in


order to quantify ingredients toxicity ■ Trans-Epithelial-Electrical-Resistance (TEER) which reflects the global integrity of the epidermis barrier linked both to the structure and to epithelium thickness. ■ Biotin permeability assay: biotin is a vitamin which can be used as a tracker in order to evaluate the integrity of living epidermis in an inside-out permeation model. The results showed that 2% Sepinov EMT 10 and 2% Simulgel NS present both good tolerance and are non-irritant for mechanically impaired epidermis (no significant differences compared to the negative control). In addition, Simulgel NS even restored the barrier function of the impaired epidermis in the test conditions. The TEER evaluation showed that the


barrier function of the impaired epidermis was recovered to the level of standard epidermis, 24 hours after application of 2% Simulgel NS. At the same time, the biotin permeability


assay indicated that its migration decreased after application of Simulgel NS and reached the level of non-abraded epidermis. Both tests showed barrier function recovery thanks to Simulgel NS. Thus, Sepinov EMT 10 and Simulgel NS


are both appropriate for the products such as after-shaving, after microdermabrasion etc., by providing mildness to the skin in specific and delicate conditions. UK-based global speciality personal care


and ingredients manufacturer, Stephenson has developed an innovative soap base. Manufactured as a hot emulsion using Stephenson’s patented Durosoft technology and further processed with a standard industry vacuum spray drier and extruders, the ultra-mild base, Syndopal is


adaptable for cosmetic, premium mass market applications. For the first time manufacturers in the personal care and cosmetics


Borage oil flowers and oil.


markets have access to high speed syndet bar production without the


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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