78 ANALYSIS
Top rising ingredients analysed
Yarden Horwitz – Spate, US
This past year, consumers spent time at home learning the do’s and don’ts of ingredients in beauty — and now many of the beauty category’s top emerging trends are ingredient- driven (ie niacinamide serum, salicylic acid cleanser). With consumers seeking out products based on their ingredients, brands’ decisions on which ingredients to include is more critical than ever. This article covers the top trending
ingredients — by growth, by volume, and by category. The data will help brands determine which ingredients to highlight in messaging and which to include in product innovation planning. Spate analyses over 20 billion search
signals to identify which beauty ingredients are most top of mind for consumers. Why search data? Every time a user types a query into the search bar, they are sharing what is top of mind for them — often including concerns, questions, and context they might not share elsewhere. Spate captures billions of queries that project an unbiased lens on real consumer behaviours and needs. The methodology includes:
■ +20B beauty related search signals in the US ■ Unsupervised machine learning to identify clusters ■ Trends classification for insights and implications To identify top trends, we categorise Spate data into six different clusters based on similar trend behaviours: ■ Sustained risers - Steady growth over the past years, these trends are safe bets ■ Seasonal risers - Seasonal trends that are likely to come back even stronger ■ Sustained decliners ■ Seasonal decliners
■ Rising stars - Sudden growth within the past months, these trends are riskier ■ Falling stars
Top emerging trends by cluster Spate has identified the top trending ingredients for each of the categories mentioned previously. The top ingredient in the Sustained Riser category is sea moss (Table 1), seeing 207% growth according to Google search data over the past 12 months. Sea moss, also known as Irish moss, is an algae associated with a range of benefits for
TABLE 1: SUSTAINED RISERS. SOURCE: GOOGLE SEARCH DATA, YEAR-OVER-YEAR GROWTH COMPARING THE PAST 12 MONTHS ENDING NOVEMBER 2020 VS THE 12 MONTHS PRIOR (US).
Ingredient sea moss
niacinamide quercetin bakuchiol squalane
Sea moss (Irish moss). PERSONAL CARE April 2021
ascorbyl glucoside pracaxi oil postbiotics
Growth
+207.7% +177.7% +137.3% +104.9% +164.9% +139.1% +146.3% +170.7%
skin care, including: delivering hydration and suppleness to dry and irritated skin, and is non-comedogenic. Not far behind sea moss on the list is niacinamide at 177% growth in the past 12 months. Niacinamide, also referred to as vitamin B3, has a broad range of efficacy in topical skin care products, including: regulating oil, reducing appearance of pores and wrinkles, reducing redness and blotchiness, reducing hyperpigmentation. In the list of Seasonal Risers, the top
spot was held by mullein. Mullein is a plant in the figwort family and its leaves can be used to make tea as well as being used in topical products, where it has been used for wound healing and eczema. Black elderberry has gained popularity due to its ability to lessen the appearance of age spots and wrinkles. In the Rising Stars category, we see
ingredients such as alpha arbutin, a natural skin brightening ingredient which helps even skin tone and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Also featured are phospholipids which aid the eternal quest for deep hydration into the skin as well as being skin-identical.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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