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46 MARINE INGREDIENTS


Powerful marine active corrects dark spots


Mathias Fleury, Anne Humeau, Amandine Scandolera, Mélanie Pélican, Romain Reynaud – Givaudan Active Beauty, France


On a daily basis, environmental stress such as UV exposure and pollution as well as chronological ageing generate a loss of control in the pigmentation process, which ends up in the appearance of brown and dark spots on the surface of the skin. According to our recent global online consumer study, algae extract is perceived as one of the most effective ingredients, with 45% of Chinese beauty care users choosing it to reduce hyper pigmented spots, a prevailing skin concern that impacts over 70% of consumers worldwide. Building on the consumers’ strong interest in clean and safe ingredients, Givaudan’s Marine Biotechnology and skin experts have designed B-Lightyl™, a unique and sustainable macro-alga extract which re-establishes the communication between fibroblasts and melanocytes, thereby reverting pigmentation disorders.


Loss of communication: the main cause for pigmentation disorder Classified as one of the most important ageing concerns for consumers globally (68% rank it in their top 3 most important signs of ageing Givaudan on line survey over 6 countries (USA, Brazil, France, UK, Korea, China), 1230 respondents (women from 18 to 50 years old), February 2019), dark spots, which are also called age spots and brown spots, are the consequence of a biological process getting out of control: skin pigmentation, which results in an overproduction of melanin, the pigment also responsible for the colour of our eyes, hair and skin. Intrinsic ageing (resulting in senile


lentigo), overexposure to UV (solar lentigo), inflammation process or wound healing (scars), amongst many others various causes can generate a loss of control on the pigmentation process. Up to now, the only way to fight against hyper pigmented spots was to use whitening agents or exfoliating compounds, which are often aggressive for the skin, or result in a general impact on the skin tone, as they are not specifically acting on the spots. A new biological pathway has recently explaining how a loss of


been identified,1


communication between senescent fibroblasts and melanocytes is one of the main causes for the pigmentation disorders. A key protein (SDF-1), synthetised by the fibroblasts, is indeed playing a crucial messenger role


PERSONAL CARE April 2021


Figure 1: B-Lightyl™ mechanism of action.


in our skin, but its production decreases drastically in senescent conditions. This was the key Givaudan Active Beauty scientists were looking for, to offer a new and exclusive ingredient, specifically targeting pigmentation spots, without impacting consumers’ natural skin tone! By re-establishing communication between fibroblasts and melanocytes (reactivating SDF-1 production in senescent skin conditions or under over-exposure to UV), and thanks to its antioxidant properties providing interesting additional benefits, B-Lightyl (now referred to as ‘the macro-alga extract’) enables you to take back control on the skin pigmentation process, both in a preventive and curative way.


The power of marine biotech Himanthalia elongata, a brown macro- alga up to 2 metres long growing close to the Pink Granite Coast of Brittany, France, was identified in our Marine Biotechnology Centre of Excellence. Concentrating extraordinary active compounds, it uses, during its growth, the power of sunlight and captures atmospheric CO2 to produce its key


constituents. By doing so, algae participate in lowering the atmospheric carbon released by industrial activities, making it one of the most sustainable resources to develop new cosmetic ingredients. To preserve this sustainable aspect, the algae used as raw material are then harvested manually at low tide, by trained men and women, called “Goémoniers”. Himanthalia elongata produces many


biomarkers of interest, such as polyphenols, and more specifically phlorotannins. These particular molecules have been identified during our screening for their ability to reactivate the expression of SDF-1, a key target in hyperpigmentation disorders. By enriching the alga extract in those molecules of interest, Active Beauty scientists crafted the macro-alga extract, the universal dark spots fader.


Acting on a new pathway (SDF-1) to avoid pigmentation disorders Three different ex vivo tests have been realised to evaluate the impact of both senescence and UV over-exposure on SDF-1


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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