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FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS D0-D28 IL1α EVOLUTION 2500 2000 1500 1000 1519.9 500 0 Active Ingredient 3%


Figure 18: Illustrations of the amount of IL1α quantified on D0 and D28. S: p<0.05


D28 with the active ingredient and placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is not statistically significant. The results obtained show that the


quantity of IL8 decreases significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient while no significant variation was observed for the placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is not statistically significant.


D-SQUAME biochemical evaluation The results obtained for the Nile red/Involucrin ratio at D0 and D28 are illustrated in Figure 20. The results obtained show that the Nile


Red/Involucrin ratio does not vary significantly between D0 and D28 with the active ingredient and placebo. The comparison of the evolution between D0 and D28 observed with the active ingredient relative to the evolution observed with the placebo is statistically significant in favour of the active ingredient.


INVOLUCRINE D0-D28 LS


1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0


+13.5% -3% 0.40 S 0.20 0.13% 0.00 -0.20 -0.04% -0.40 Active Ingredient 3% Active Ingredient 3%


Figure 20: Illustrations of the Nile red/Involucrin ratio on D0 and D28. NS: not significative, LS: p:<0.5, S: p:<0.05


www.personalcaremagazine.com Placebo Placebo NS Placebo 1268.0 1560.2 1392.1 S S -10.7% -16.6% D0-D28 IL8 EVOLUTION


1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0


S NS -10.9% -13.6%


35


568.9 487.1 Active Ingredient 3%


Figure 19: Illustrations of the amount of IL8 quantified on D0 and D28. S: p<0.05.


Conclusion The results presented in this technical article show the potential of the Laboratoire Expanscience active ingredient Algaenia (Chlamydomonas acidophila extract) to treat sensitive skin by modulating 4 key factors: inflammation, activation of effector immune cells, skin barrier and hydration. In fact, the active ingredient Algaenia


(Propanediol, Glycerin, Water, Chlamydomonas acidophila Extract) has demonstrated an in vitro anti-inflammatory activity against different types of stress: chemical, irritating and sensitising. It also strengthened the cutaneous barrier and hydration and modulated the immune response. These effects were clinically confirmed in a double-blind study on volunteers with sensitive skin. Therefore, it could be of interest for sensitive skin and for atopic-prone skin. It is also COSMOS Approved.


References 1. Wilhelm KP, et al. Effect of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate – Induced Skin Irritation on In Vivo Percutaneous Penetration of Four Drugs. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology 1991;


INVOLUCRINE D0-D28 ALGAENIAvs PLACEBO 97(5) :927-932.


2. Marrakchi S, Maibach HI. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-Induced Irritation in the Human Face: Regional and Age-Related Differences. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 2006; 19:177- 180.


3. Bondi CAM, et al. Human and Environmental Toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Evidence for Safe Use in Household Cleaning Products. Environmental Health Insights 2015; 9:27-32.


4. Saito M et al. Molecular Mechanisms of Nickel Allergy. International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2016; 17:202.


5. Torres Fet al. Management of contact dermatitis due to nickel allergy: An update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2009; 2:39-48.


PC


6. Pasparakis M et al. Mechanisms regulating skin immunity and inflammation. Nature Reviews Immunology 2014; 14(5) :289-301.


7. S. Pastore et al. (2006) Keratinocytes in skin inflammation. Future Drugs Ltd, 1(2) :279-291.


8. J. Leysen et al. (2011) The basophil activation test in the diagnosis of immediate drug hypersensitivity. Expert Reviews Clinical Immunology, 7(3).


9. Feingold KR, Elias PM. Role of lipids in the formation and maintenance of the cutaneous permeability barrier. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta 2014; 1841(3):280-294.


10. Reynier M, et al. Rab11a Is Essential for Lamellar Body Biogenesis in the Huamn Epidermis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2016; 136(6):1199-1209.


11. Rawlings AV, Matts PJ. Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level: an update in relation to the dry skin cycle. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2005; 124:1099- 1110


12. Oh JH et al. Intrinsic aging- and photoaging-dependent level changes of glycosaminoglycans and their correlation with water content in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science 2011; 62:192-201.


13. Neudecker BA et al. Hyaluronan: Biology, Pathology and Pharmacology. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2000; 115(11): 42-58.


April 2021 PERSONAL CARE Placebo


533.4


475.2


IL1 α (pg/mg proteins)


IL8 (pg/mg proteins)


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