62 FRAGRANCES
Clean and natural driving fragrance trends
Cynthia Warshany – Sozio
Fragrance is one of the most important ingredients in personal care and beauty formulations; it supports the claims and efficacy of products, as well as the overall experience of using them. With an abundance of new products constantly being launched on the market, fragrance is a key driver for most consumer purchases. They carry a unique experience, bringing out memories and emotions or added wellness benefits. With that being said, the fragrances in cosmetic applications have faced new challenges and have become more complex and creative to offer consumers new options. The beauty and personal care industry is
leading the way for natural and clean products. This is making botanical and true to nature scents increasingly popular. Even if the scent is not always 100% natural, scents inspired by nature give this notion of naturalness to a product. We can see examples of this in newer launches, like Dove’s Botanical Selection, which highlights rich ingredients like Olive, Jasmine, Lavender and Damask Rose. The natural market for cosmetics is
continuing to grow at a CAGR of 5.01 % and is expected to reach $48.05 billion, according to Grand View Research. This makes for a greater demand of 100% natural and 100% essential oil fragrances. This is becoming increasingly difficult for perfumers as they need to follow more restrictive guidelines, like the ISO Standard or other certifications such as COSMOS and NOP/ USDA. Ingredient callouts for fragrances go far
beyond this movement of natural, but even makes its way through one of the most popular
trends right now, which is wellness. Essential oils are commonly used for their extra benefits of aromatherapy or even topical applications. Mood boosting and stress relieving scents are a strong interest from consumers as the need for self-care has expanded during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Crossing over from the food industry An extension of natural is the clean movement, which has had a large impact on a cross category of products. The concept
of clean first started in the food industry with the demand stemming from clean eating. This interest translated into beauty and personal care, with 77% of adults in China purchasing clean beauty products because they are safer than mainstream beauty products, according to Mintel. With a variety of retailers, like Sephora and Target, giving their own definition of clean, the impacts on regulatory has become quite significant in the fragrance industry. For example, Sephora has badged over 2,000 of its products as “clean”, which means they are free of ingredients like sulfates, parabens, formaldehydes, phthalates, and mineral oil. Target has labelled 4,000 of its products as “clean”, which requires the absence of: propyl-parabens, butyl-parabens, phthalates, formaldehyde, formaldehyde- donors, nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs), Oxybenzone, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), retinyl palmitate, hydroquinone, triclosan, triclocarban, BHA, and BHT. Since clean products are formulated with
very restrictive guidelines, perfumers are limited with raw material usage making the formulation process strenuous. Regulatory is driving the fragrance market and constantly challenging it with new updates almost every day, further limiting perfumers’ creativity. The food & beverage industry has had an influence on the fragrance industry for quite some time. Tea concepts are some of the most popular scents, especially in China. For Chinese people, the culture of tea is part of their tradition and considered as an ancestral art. Many skin care products have a Green Tea or Matcha Tea scent, taking the inspiration from fine fragrances like Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea Eau de Parfum. Green tea is synonymous of clean, pure and fresh. Additionally, White Tea and Black Tea follow closely as they are considered to be sophisticated and elegant. A popular example of this is Fresh’s Black Tea collection. It is well known for its health-giving properties, as the founders, Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg, quote on the company’s web site: “Tea is the world’s most ancient remedy. It was discovered thousands of years ago in China, whose people cultivated its use as a medicine, as a ritual, as an art form. We first turned to black tea because of its high levels of antioxidants that protect against damaging free radicals.”
PERSONAL CARE April 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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