6 COVER STORY: ASHLAND
A new sandalwood extract developed with A.I.
Anne Clay, Jean-Marie Botto, Christophe Capallere – Ashland
Sandalwood extract (SW) is a natural biofunctional inspired by forest therapy to defy the skin olfactory signature of ageing. Obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction from Santalum album, this unique and patented biofunctional leverages the forest bathing trend for well ageing benefits. SW enhances skin olfactory receptors shown to decrease with age and air pollution. It reduces skin cell senescence and helps mitigate air pollution damage; It has clinically proven benefits on skin regeneration, firmness, wrinkles, and on the skin olfactory signature of aging. SW is the first biofunctional developed with Artificial Intelligence.
Leveraging the forest therapy trend Forest Therapy, under the umbrella of nature or ecotherapy, has existed in Japan since the Forest Agency of Japan promoted Shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) as a practice for healthy living and part of a forest therapy program. The practice of shinrin-yoku is the art and science of how trees can promote health and happiness. Breathing in a forest is a possible mechanism that may induce the health benefits of forest bathing. Forests often deliver large amounts of odorant molecules, identified as “forest VOCs”. These VOCs produced by trees are secondary metabolites with several functions including tree defence and communication. Inhaling some forest VOCs can result in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, it may also be beneficial to improve cognitive performance by decreasing mental fatigue, increasing relaxation and mood. Forest bathing continues to grow in interest and stature and is now a new trend in the beauty industry.
Air quality is top of mind We’ve seen clean eating and clean sleeping
Botanical composition 17 phytochemicals
Ligand-based target prediction
database and literature mining
living in urban environments and spending most of their time indoor, with no forest in their close surroundings, the joy and healing power of the trees is not readily available for most of them.
have their moment, but big on the radar for 2021 is clean breathing. In 2018, 55 percent of the world’s population lived in urban areas, and, by 2050, it will be 68 percent. Air pollution results from chemical reactions derived from various sources – mostly from vehicle exhaust and industrial gas emissions. Indoor air quality is important as it contains various pollutants with a significant influence on our own comfort and health. The low quality of indoor air is due to the emissions of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from wooden elements of indoor furnishings. With a growing number of people
Target genes 482 target genes (validated/predictive hits) gene enrichment study
2803 Biogical Processes 348 Molecular Fonctions 267 Cellular Components
data curation
Skin-specific biological processes associated with specific signaling pathways and genes
l 125 skin-related Figure 1: Network pharmacology approach for sandalwood extract. PERSONAL CARE April 2021
4,000 years of spiritual rituals with sandalwood Sandalwood has a 4,000-year-old history: the oil was used in religious rituals, and many deities, temples and sacred carvings were crafted from its soft wood. It was one of the most common incenses found burning in ancient Hindu and Buddhist temples around India and Tibet and is still used in temples today as it is believed to bring one closer to one’s divine nature. Sandalwood is highly prized for its oil that forms only with the right mix of genetics and environmental factors. The oil is the tree’s defence mechanism against disease and stress which helps explain many of the medicinal properties for which it has been used over the centuries. In addition to its spiritual and medicinal properties, its intensely sweet, soft, woody, and slightly musky aroma made it a prized ingredient for luxury perfumes, incenses, and cosmetics from ancient India, to Egypt, to China, and to the rest of the world
Upcycling wood chips as part of a circular economy model SW is obtained from Santalum album sustainably grown in Australia in a plantation using regenerative agriculture techniques, with rotational re-planting after harvest and water- efficient irrigation techniques. There is a full control over the entire supply chain from planting, growing, and harvesting the sandalwood to processing the essential oil by steam distillation without adding any chemical during the process. Wood chips depleted in oil are used for the extraction of SW by supercritical CO2
technology.
The oil soluble extract is then solubilised in a bio- based solvent. SW is part of a circular economy model, creating value out of a by-product, with a minimal use of natural resources.
Using artificial intelligence and bioinformatics to develop a sandalwood extract Over the past two decades, enormous amounts of data have been accumulated in the domain of human health, physiology and knowledge on the role of genes and biological mechanisms. Due to its predictive potential, Artificial
Intelligence (AI) can improve the success rate and speed up the process of active ingredient development. Indeed, AI can explore large
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