MARINE INGREDIENTS 85
contributes negligibly to the mechanical properties of hair fibers. At the fiber level, the natural active acts
on the keratins synthesis and protects the fiber against dryness and chlorine treatment. In addition it enhances and restores hair shine.
Stimulation of the hair keratins synthesis The hair fiber is made up of 95% keratins that contribute to the physicochemical properties and ensure the strength, flexibility and protection of the hair. The keratin gene family, made of 54 distinct functional genes in humans, includes two kinds of keratins: the epithelial cytokeratins or “soft” keratins and the hair keratins or “hard” keratins. Both kinds are divided into type I (acidic) and type II (basic to neutral) members. Keratins act as highly dynamic structures with many functional roles managed by a complex pattern of gene expression in the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. Disturbances in these structures can result in hair diseases. The natural extract increases the gene expression of major hair keratins acting as the building components of fibers (Table 2). Keratins are known with two different
schedules, the older name being in parenthesis. KRT 85 and KRT 36 are expressed in the hair cortex whereas KRT 75 and KRT 34 are in the medulla and KRT 26 in the cuticle. KRT 75 is specially expressed in the companion layer of the hair follicle and in the hair medulla. The mutation of some keratins, especially KRT 75 and KRT 85 can induce important hair disorders. The natural extract modulates both
types of keratins, necessary for the formation of intermediate filament keratin. By over-expressing key keratins genes, it stimulates keratinization, restores the integrity of fibers to reinforce the hair. It provides resistance to environmental attacks to build stronger hair.
Protection of the hair fiber against dryness and chlorine stress Both women and men of any age can have dry hair. Dry hair does not have enough moisture. It has lost its shine. Its cuticle became weathered and porous. This situation becomes a common problem that is highly undesirable because it reflects troubles of hair health. Indeed, it can exhibit endogenous causes (e.g. defection in sebum production influenced by hormones or changes in keratinization due dietary deficiencies in proteins, vitamins and minerals) or else exogenous causes brought about by cosmetic hair treatments (e.g. applications of hair dyes, highlighting, straightening) or environmental factors (e.g. excessive exposure to sun, cold temperatures, salt water, pool chlorine,
May 2020 Untreated Control Active 2% Untreated Control Active 2%
Figure 3:Observations by scanning electron microscopy of the cuticle of dry hair.
Table 2: Values of gene expression of Keratins.
Genes KRT 75 (K6hf) KRT 85 (Hb5) Keratin 75 type II Keratin 85 type II KRT 26 (K2Sirs2) Keratin 26 type I KRT 34 (Ha4) KRT 36 (Ha6) Keratin 34 type I Keratin 36 type I
% control 129
132 125 122 130
atmospheric pollution). In addition, when we age, hair tends to become increasingly drier. Therefore, hair dryness affects the look and the shine and can lead to alopecia. It needs extra care. The natural active is able to (1) preserve
cuticle integrity of dry hair and (2) repair damage caused by chemical stress (chlorine stress) in order to restore healthy appearance. The observations of the hair cuticle by scanning electron microscopy are presented in Figure 3 for dry hair and Figure 4 for dry hair treated with a chlorine solution.
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Figure 4: Observations by scanning electron microscopy of the cuticle of dry hair submitted to chlorine treatment.
The image related to untreated control
reveals broken and opened scales of the cuticle that increase the porosity and can induce hair loss. The natural active at 2% protects the cuticle of dry hair fiber, defying dryness and preserving fiber integrity. Scales appear sealed with protected edges that avoid water loss and limit friction between hair fibers. Chlorinated water is known to cause
significant hair damage. It can induce a green tint to light hair as well as dryness and color loss. On the image related to untreated control, in some areas, scales appear lifted up, damaged and even disintegrated. On the image of cuticle treated with 2% active, the cuticle is sheathed with smoothed scales. The natural active at 2% restores dry hair chemically damaged by chlorine treatment. It regains integrity to the fiber working as a protective shield, repairing hair fibers damage from chemical and therefore facilitating hair dressing.
Restoration of hair shine Shine is one of the most important and desired cosmetic attributes of the hair. Damage on cuticle as well as dust particles
65 17.4% 47.62 *
Placebo Figure 5: Increase of hair shine. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Active 2%
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