12 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
increase of natural fragrance requests. Because natural still sounds a safer option for consumers even if it is not true. It is worthwhile to remember the safest fragrance formula doesn’t mean natural but means made with the right raw materials to make it as safe as possible. We can observe the same assessment with sustainable fragrances; but can we create a sustainable fragrance? “Yes, we can create safer options for the
environment but once again that doesn’t mean natural but it is more dependent on the characteristics of a raw material. Most of the time, raw materials are cleaner for the environment with higher levels of biodegradability and are safer for oceans and wildlife. “This approach to clean fragrance is still
new and brands and consumers need to be more educated on this specific topic which is complex and sensitive. This new regulation and guideline are drastically reducing perfumer’s palette, the olfactive possibilities are limited but this could open a new way of creativity. We have recently seen an increase of mineral scents, Gucci with Mémoire D’une Odeur has officially approved this olfactive description as a new olfactive family. This type of scent is really fresh and clean, and could be described as ozonic, floral-transparent, and soft woody… “The other key olfactive families are
aromatic/green, citrus, floral and woody tend to be evocative of nature. Even if there are some synthetic raw materials in the formula the fragrances have to be true to nature and soft. “Essential oil call outs are also
something that brands are looking at because it gives this idea of naturalness and can also provide more than just a scent by delivering extra benefits that are calming, soothing or relaxing. They can also be part of the base formulation as the active ingredient. “Most importantly, ‘Clean’ correlates well
with transparency. The younger generation wants to know what they are buying and using and we - at all levels - suppliers, brands and retailers, are capable of providing insightful information. Sharing a fragrance disclosure is something that fragrance houses can do to help them to provide the right information to the final consumers.”
Millennial and Generation Z concepts For its new ‘Being Millennials’ concept, BASF has identified three personas that characterise prominent subgroups of this generation: the Natural Lover, the Digital Player and the Healthy Beauty Sponsor. The Natural Lover is authentic, stays in touch with nature, and is deeply aware of the need for sustainability and responsible consumption.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
The Digital Player satisfies its strongest needs and wishes with products endorsed by their online friends and followers. Meanwhile, the ambitious, powerful and athletic Healthy Beauty Sponsor expects to be able to buy products and brands with safe ingredients, minimalist formulas and total transparency. For each of these personas, BASF has developed various formulas with carefully selected ingredients. Ingredients featuring in these concepts
include the recently-launched Texapon SFA, a very mild anionic surfactant suitable for tear-free rinse-off formulations, shampoos and bodywash products. It provides a creamy, rich foam, enhances conditioning and enables the deposition of cationic polymers. Texapon SFA is 100 percent derived from renewable feedstock, readily biodegradable, and certified according to the RSPO Mass Balance supply chain model. Using a hybrid technology, BASF developed Dehyton SFA based on Texapon SFA and betaine. It is cold-processable, easier to formulate and comes with very low risk of eye irritation. It is extremely gentle on the skin and mucous membranes and can be used as a micellar thickening agent in formulas. As alternatives to silicones, BASF
brought along the light volatile emollient Cetiol Ultimate and Cosmedia Gel CC, a modified hectorite that helps create modern, elegant textures with a powdery, waxy and dry after-feel. Givaudan Active Beauty created Sensory
Crush, a collection of three naturally coloured face masks that meet the beauty expectations of Generation Z consumers. Launched at Cosmet’Agora in Paris earlier this year, Sensory Crush includes powerful ingredients combining the world of naturals and innovation to address the beauty expectations of the trendsetting generation. Generation Z represents 40% of global consumers and they have already changed the definition of beauty by making it more emotional. Self-educated in beauty
and in sustainability, they take a look at what they use to ensure it is good for them, for the others and for the environment. Dar! – French for Lit! This exfoliating
mask (powered by Biogomm’age) has purifying (rutin, active molecule extracted from Sophora japonica), regenerative (natural extract of papaya) and detoxifying (activated carbon) properties. To mimic papaya’s appearance, two dyes have been mixed, the beta-carotene of Dunaliella algae (Orange-WD-L) and carmine red (Red-WS-P). This papaya-like formula transforms from orange to black, as the activity of the charcoal beads is released during scrubbing. OKLM – French for Chillax. This night
mask has anti-oxidant properties (natural extract of Yuzu) allowing it to calm and moisturize (Yogurtene Balance, a skin hydrator) the skin gently. Upon application, its refreshing effect soothes all tensions felt during the day. To obtain a creamy and smooth yellow, Dunaliella natural dye (Orange-WD-L) was used. En Bombe! – French for On Fleak! This
mask restores the energy and vitality (natural extract of Dragon Fruit) of the skin. Its honey texture becomes milky when you massage your face with water. After rinsing, it eradicates stress (Neurophroline active botanical extract of Tephrosia purpera traditionally used in Ayurvedic medecine) and gives a luminous effect to the skin. Echoing the dragon fruit, the color of this mask was obtained through anthocyanins (Red-OD-P), a natural dye found in leaves, petals and fruits.
Conclusion Millennials and Generation Z consumers are complex and in many ways unpredictable, but it is important to understand their concerns and approach to purchasing in order to create products that are relevant, appealing and transparent. These consumers understand supply chains and are interested in the decisions behind ingredients chosen, so it is vital to ensure they all stand up to scrutiny and embody the brand’s ethos. Products need to create an emotional
engagement with consumers, through their textures, fragrances and ingredient stories, as well as providing efficacy. It will be a challenge for brands to succeed with this market, but those who think differently, are inclusive and considerate in their approach have a greater chance of success.
PC References
1 'Future of beauty - is your brand ready for Gen Z?: Research + report', The Pull Agency, February 2020
2
https://fruuurskin.com/ May 2020
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