PRESERVATIVES 35


Multifunctionals for modern product protection


n Régine Frick – Symrise, France Did Symrise anticipate, when Hydrolite®


5


was introduced on the personal care market back in 1992, that multifunctional ingredients, such as alkanediols, would become such a great match for today’s progressive formulators trying to respond to market developments and ever- increasing regulatory constraints?


The quest for meaningful consumption Gone are the days when supporting new product release by a promising marketing spiel, a well-known muse and a prestigious brand was enough to achieve success. Today’s consumers, particularly Generations Y and Z,1


are looking for something more:


something that expresses their values to the outside world. They are very keen to make smart decisions, whether in terms of the transparency of the products they purchase, eco-friendliness or safety, not forgetting the need for the product to be effective and offer an enjoyable consumer experience. A study2


conducted by Symrise in 2018


showed that 80% of consumers were willing to pay more for responsibly-sourced ingredients and that the majority of them thought they could identify such ingredients in products. Mobile applications intend to help consumers when it comes to deciphering formulas, and are increasingly playing an advisory or even prescriptive role. According to the NPD Group’s (a global market research corporation) Women’s Facial Skincare Consumer Report,3 50% of women surveyed in the USA looked for information online before buying a product at a store. “Consumers use their purchasing power to make their voices heard and support brands that are committed to natural ingredients and transparency,” explains Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty analyst for The NPD Group. Kantar Worldpanel (a consulting company), for its part, points out that one of the challenges facing players in the mass consumption market4


is


consuming less to consume better - a weak signal but one that should nevertheless be taken into account.


May 2020 Abstract


The ‘clean’ movement, which started a few years ago in the personal care market, is more and more of interest to consumers looking for enjoyable but responsible experience. When focusing on the product protection system, this concept is even more relevant. The list of acceptable preservatives has been shrinking due to regulations and negative press for more than 15 years, urging formulators to rethink the way they formulate. Multifunctionals have a key role to play here, bringing different advantages such as active and excipient properties and sensorial qualities. They enhance the product protection system of the formulations and comply with the main pillars used to describe Clean Beauty: respect for the skin and environmental safety, sustainability, ethics, and transparency. More than ever, these ingredients are in tune with the times.


biguanide which has been restricted to not more than 0.1% in the formulas and banned from sprayable products. Salicylic acid was listed as a category 2 CMR substance in 2019, then amended with restrictions of use. Annex V of the European Regulation is now listing 60 preservatives5


with only


around twenty or so currently being used. On a global level, regulations differ from one region to another, but each country has its own set of advanced requirements. “From the formulator’s perspective,


preserving the product is a major challenge in a context where the public takes a


negative view of preservatives, and, given that, the regulations for emerging markets such as China and Latin America are expected to change,” explains Lucile Manteau, senior manager of Regulatory Affairs at Symrise. Brands are then constantly looking for alternative molecules to protect their formulas and allow them to be ready to replace any ingredient that might be indexed.


Demanding regulations One criterion by which to assess a product is the absence of any molecules of concern in its composition, and in this respect, regulation plays a very important role and is constantly evolving to guarantee consumer safety. In Europe, such regulations have focused notably on preservatives over the past 15 years. Discussions regarding the use of parabens have been occurring since 2005, isothiazolinones have been banned from leave-on products since 2015, followed since 2017 by polyaminopropyl


The end of free-from claims At the same time, the number of products that claim to be paraben-free, mineral oil- free, sulfate-free, etc. has sky-rocketed. According to Mintel, the number of ‘free- from’ claims has increased across all geographical areas, notably in the Western world. In the United Kingdom, for example, variations in the number of ‘free-from’ product launches between August 2017 and July 2018 were up 10.9% for the ‘free from parabens’ claim. In the US,


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


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