WAXES & BUTTERS 65
The evolution of cosmetic butters: authenticity
n Dean Lockton – ProTec Botanica, UK
It is important in the first instance to understand that the focus of this article is on what we classify as ‘true’, ‘authentic’ or ‘unadulterated’ butters in the personal care market. Such a butter may simply be defined as “the fat obtained from the fruit, nut or seed from a specific botanical source”. Further to this, it is recognized that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semi- solid state at a temperature range of 20°C – 30°C. While butters are significant to the food industry, cocoa and shea being two key raw materials for confectionary, we can equally identify with both as having major importance within the personal care market. That said, butter demand continues to grow but more-so outside of these two historic core materials. What were historically recognized as the base ingredient, or an important component, in many personal care products on which a formulation was focussed, butters in the personal care evolution have taken an exotic route through authenticity. Listing Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the product portfolio, when presented to formulators, now extends to such product names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. Multi-functional as they are, the ever- developing world and increasingly consumer-led demand means formulators are keen to explore the growing number of commercially available butters now present in the market for a variety of skin, lip and hair care applications.
Authenticity The demand for natural and organic ingredients from the consumer strengthens not only the support of a healthy lifestyle but brings with it an awareness of sustainability. New product development based on natural or organic themes are a core growth focus for both brand owners and manufacturers and in the UK alone, the natural and certified organic product sector increased by 23% in 2019 with a value of £106.4m. The Soil Association Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market 2020 Report further details that 2019 results showed a ninth year of consecutive double-digit
May 20120
growth and, since 2010, was the third largest growth in percentage terms. On a global scale, 2019 estimations for the market were $36bn and this is predicted to reach $54bn by 2027. The continued upward pattern in these results, and a strong value in sales revenue, has a positive and encouraging effect throughout the entire supply chain. The consumer-led movement via each step ultimately reaches the origin; the raw material producer, which is a very significant achievement. ‘Authentic’, ‘true’ or ‘unadulterated’,
whichever adjective we wish to use for the butters, ‘hydrogenated’ or ‘modified’ are not ones we can give any consideration to in this situation. A hydrogenated olein does indeed have its place in commercial applications, offering a consistent quality, batch after batch, is one factor. The second may be stable pricing, but this is not necessarily guaranteed. However, while many may think that such modified products offer no contribution to the progress of true butters, the contradiction is that it may have some influence.
An increasing availability of butters achieved by hydrogenation therefore means the portfolio of authentic butters can be presented to the formulator and ultimately, their compliance with the brief, whether it be a natural or organic requirement, which is a starting point. Having ticked the first compliance box, the increasing inclusion in formulations is of course the foundation on which to build this product portfolio. From here onwards, the journey from grower to end user has never been more important, especially the story behind the raw material. From origin, looking positively at their ingredient being brought to market and, whether it be the formulator, brand owner or consumer, all having an interest in different aspects of the story, be it the corporate social responsibility, the ethical production, the environmental respect, the natural sustainability, or indeed the traceability of the raw material. The marketing story exists for the brand owners and for the consumer, their wellbeing and lifestyle path of consciousness continues.
Social responsibility The origin of many raw materials may be far from what we would recognize as being commercial and in some circumstances, underdeveloped may be a more appropriate adjective. Whether it be with their production facilities, their organizational structure or their marketing operation, the latter not existing at all in many situations and therefore the reason for an established organization to bring the raw material to market. Having said that, it is the local traditional operation in management, such as grower groups or owner co-operatives, in combination with the local traditional processing techniques, that allows the continuity of raw material production. And so, it is seen that with the starting point working effectively and efficiency following through each stage of the origin to consumer path, collective success ensues. The livelihoods of many at origin may be dependent upon the success of the raw material as few income options
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
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