66 WAXES & BUTTERS


exist, increased production benefits the local rural communities and, with the increased demand, an expansion in the community network follows, as fruit, nut and seed collection requirements increase.


Sustainability While the positives can be seized upon of a raw material demand existing and the confidence in the ability to fulfil that demand existing also, this supply / demand ratio must always remain balanced. The ratio relationship must encompass many criteria and, with such a delicate balance, if tipped to a bias it could have a disastrous outcome. The requirement to be sensible and consistent in all commercial activity is a priority never to be overlooked, not least to allow demand outstripping supply and there being a risk that quality is compromised, and continuity of supply is threatened. Consistency in everything is of paramount importance and the irony is that the only inconsistency in the whole process is nature itself, the very reason that we are gifted to have access to these raw materials. It therefore becomes evident that the management of the botanical source is critical in all growing areas, a sustainable forest management plan and an environmental protection policy must exist. The natural harvesting protocol should never be forced or deviated from, the fruit, nuts and seeds falling when mature and being collected when ready to do so. Methods of collection and their timing follow a traditional and natural process respectively. If this practice is followed then the raw material quality, while not guaranteed due to natural climatic influences, will have an acceptance of consistency. “The best way to preserve the


environment is by keeping a community there. Encouraging the community to


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


remain in the countryside, besides valuing a wealth of the local ecological heritage, contributes to its preservation. Care begins here, because it is where the community sustains itself.”


Quality and certification Authentic, socially responsible, ethically produced, environmentally respectful, sustainably aware and 100% natural, are credible factors for a progressive looking formulator, brand owner and consumer. In addition, COSMOS Approved and a selection of raw materials with organic certification is also a possibility. To further enhance the product portfolio, there is access to an exotic butter range that has not undergone any refining process in its production. The fruits, nuts or seeds collected through the natural maturing process and in-line with the natural harvesting time ensures a good starting material is available; the naturally contained vitamins, carotenoids and tocopherols are present and preserved. Furthermore, with strict focus on the quality of the starting botanical, acid values and peroxide levels should be of no concern; low results are an expectation and any concerns with stability should therefore be unfounded. The cold pressed process and method of extraction allows all the naturally occurring components to be retained for the benefits of the raw material, with no exposure to high temperatures or solvent extraction in the refining process that may impact the natural composition, especially where components are temperature sensitive. The idea with cold pressed extraction is to ensure the triglycerides and other components such as tocopherols, phytosterols, phenolic compounds and hydrocarbons remain, with no degradation to the raw material whatsoever.


Composition, properties and applications The properties of each authentic butter and their compositional differences offer the formulator a varied raw material portfolio with which to work, and the option to make choices on those most suited to the brief. A balanced composition between saturated and unsaturated fatty acids offers a low melting point close to body temperature, allowing high inclusion levels in the finished product. Unsaponifiable fractions contain tocopherols, phytosterols, vitamins and minerals that truly represent the botanical source in its natural state, being nutrient rich. Concentration of lauric acid offers the performance of a mineral oil but with the naturality status, being non-petroleum derived, therefore enhancing the ethical status. Enabling ease of penetration to the skin and scalp, and the non-obstruction of skin pores are advantageous, efficient and effective. Protection from external factors and anti-microbial activity can also be identified and used to good effect. Whatever the finished product, a cream,


lotion, moisturizer, shampoo, conditioner, stick or bar product, authentic butters have an important role to play in a multitude of personal care applications. Their touch and feel, their softness, their smoothness and the ease in which they can be spread, are all characteristics that the formulator can take to the bench to work with. Skin, lip and hair formulation development


in moisturizing, emolliency, hydration, anti- aging, regeneration, anti-inflammatory, healing, absorbing, rejuvenating, after-sun, nourishment, protection, shine, gloss, softness, maintenance, volume control, and anti-frizz formulations have the opportunity to contribute to the evolution through authenticity.


May 2020


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