16 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
plant-derived ingredients has been maximized while upholding minimal processing, in order to satisfy this timeless phyto-concept according to current standards. Throughout this concept it is usual to find cocktail lovers, where multifunctional and highly selective blends are used. From a minimalist to a complex formula, the ancient herbs segment deserves acceptability given their well- recognized historical background.
Planet Earth color is the new black Since sustainability stopped being an option and cannot be ignored anymore, more environmental-friendly measures are being applied worldwide. Consumers also acknowledge the importance of their individual daily choices. Taking the responsibility of an ecological path can be one of the holistic pathways for wellness state. Brands must be authentic and overcome the greenwashing previously disseminated, since new generations are more tuned-in and informed, and will choose the most reliable options. Firstly, a new market of products
including ingredients from natural origin started growing, then certification bodies appeared to reinforce consumer protection and officially introduced the certified organic products into the market. Likewise, certified organic and natural products, non-profit, international and independent organizations came together to certify sustainable, fair-trade, vegan and cruelty-free products, which gained strength in this continuously growing market. Brands can still capture most attention from and consumers, considering specific group preferences, avoiding controversial undesirable ingredients and
sticking to the most desirable ingredients. Products from this segment can be
used in an entire beauty routine, with high performance and quality, from beauty sleep to anti-aging and makeup. This is an extraordinary market offering that allows consumers to align their beauty care with their lifestyle, leading to a state of complete personal fulfilment. Beyond the ingredients, other issues
play an additional, but no less important role in consumers’ decision, which is mainly related to the product lifecycle. Here, production, transport and waste are in consideration too. Brands and consumers are active contributors if they want to reduce their carbon footprint and minimize the environmental impact of their consumption. On one hand, production based on low energy processes and products marketed on the country of production may be preferred. And on the other hand, ecological packaging selection, refillable packaging and reinforcing circular economy opportunities can be a differentiating advantage. Once again, greener packaging materials can be as safe and as user friendly as the conventional ones. Multifunctional products are another
approach to reduce waste. These time saving all-in-one products are a dream come true for many. Taking this eco wellness mission, brands may adopt several strategies to seduce their consumers and detoxify the planet at the same time.
Measuring wellness Conventional testing protocols may not reflect the complex response following the application of a cosmetic product. Biobehavioral research and lie-detector inspired new methodologies are taking place to help with this job. Real-time measurement of psycho-physiological parameters can mirror the emotional assessment of consumers and more accurately translate personal evaluation without verbal and cognitive bias. Several biological parameters such as the hormonal, cardiac, respiratory, brain and electrodermal activity can be objectively measured. Stress related biomarkers, such as cortisol hormone in saliva, can be non- invasively extracted and quantified. Wearable sensors can be comfortably used to obtain on-site skin conductance, heart and respiratory rate. Small health monitoring gadgets are increasingly accessible and can be used by anyone, anywhere. In parallel, mydriasis (the dilation of the pupil), eye tracking, facial expressions and body posture analysis can complete the non-verbal behavior protocol. A proper baseline record is essential, as well as targeting individuals with de- synchronized circadian rhythm, sleep- deprivation or high levels of other stressors. A multidisciplinary approach, combining quality-of-life questionnaires and objective measurement of several skin parameters throughout the day, as well as assessment of physiological markers are a must-have in any efficacy testing protocol.
Conclusion Brands can now know and prove the wellness efficacy of their products at the velocity of a heartbeat. inovapotek is a Portuguese Contract Research Organization providing customized R&D, Testing, Regulatory and Consulting services to the Personal Care, Pharmaceutical, Medical Devices and Food Supplements industries. It was founded in 2008 by two researchers of the Faculty of Pharmacy of University of Porto. With a global experience, inovapotek
builds together with brands worldwide the next generation of products, developing brands’ identity and working together with the standard and the latest safety and efficacy testing techniques. inovapotek will be at in-cosmetics
Global in Barcelona (#Z18) and NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York (#2008).
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA PC May 2020
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