84 MARINE INGREDIENTS
a powerful global protector of the three parts of hair: the follicle, the fiber and the scalp to strengthen the hair’s integrity.
Action on the follicle The natural extract influences the hair follicle by two ways (1) prevention of hair loss and (2) modulation of key biomarkers of the follicle metabolism.
D0
Prevention of hair loss Hair loss (also called alopecia) is a common problem that affects over 75% of men and 25% of women in developed countries, with three major disorders named alopecia areata (AA), androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and telogen effluvium (TE). Causes are diverse and induce in each case great emotional impact. Hair loss is characterized by abnormal
hair cycles with reduced size and survival of most of the follicles. In women, it is often related to iron deficiency, known to perturb the hair cycle in all alopecia forms. Iron deficiency also disrupts hair synthesis1
and
seems linked to hair thinning and premature graying.2
Hair loss in relation to
iron stores and ferritin level would be present in 72% of women showing diffuse hair loss.3
Increase of follicle survival In the control conditions, hair follicles start to undergo apoptosis from D13, with 42% of apoptotic hair bulbs. This phenomenon increases progressively at D15 (+75% apoptosis) and D17 and D20 (100% apoptosis). In response to 2% active treatment, the
entry of the follicles into apoptosis is delayed. At D13, just one follicle is apoptotic. At D17 and D20, only 4 bulbs are apoptotic that represent 33% of the control (Fig 1). Images in Figure 2 illustrate results.
Note the great deterioration of control bulbs at D15 and D20 compared to 2% active. The natural extract at 2% clearly induces a beneficial effect on hair follicle survival. Therefore, it offers a protective effect leading to slow down apoptosis and prevents hair loss.
Stimulation of the ferritin pathway Ferritin is a ubiquitous iron-storage protein present with a concentration correlated to the amount of iron stores. It is regulated by iron-dependent genes that may be affected by iron deficiency. So, appreciating the importance of ferritin as a factor in hair loss appears to be important for cosmetic hair treatment. The natural extract is able to over-
express by 503% the ferritin gene FTH1 (Ferritin, heavy polypeptide 1) that encodes the heavy subunit of ferritin. Therefore, it
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA D20
could help to prevent different forms of alopecia linked to ferritin pathways, especially in women’s alopecia. It could also contribute to fight hair thinning and premature graying.
Modulation of key biomarkers of the follicle metabolism This hair follicle biology is regulated by numerous signaling pathways involving numerous cytokines, hormones, transcription factors and enzymes in the key compartments of the hair follicle.4-5 Some growth factors play important
roles in the androgenic alopecia development. The natural active modulates the expression of major growth factors, especially those implicated in follicle development and hair alopecia (Table 1). BMPs are diffusible molecules involved
in the regulation of both proliferation and differentiation of the hair follicle. BMP4
Table 1: Values of gene expression of growth factors.
Genes
BMP4 Bone morphogenetic protein 4
EGFR Epidermal growth factor receptor
IGF-1R Insulin-like growth factor 1 receptor
VDR Vitamin D (1,25- dihydroxyvitamin D3)
FGFR2 Fibroblast growth factor receptor 2
% control 119
173 146 116 172 D20 Figure 2: Representative images of the effect on follicle survival at D0- D15 and D20 of culture.
gene is a marker of hair shaft progenitors in the hair matrix.6 The epidermal growth factor (EGF) and
its receptor EGFR are known for their effects on hair development. EGFR improves the growth of the hair follicle as well as the production and the differentiation of the hair fiber.7 Insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I) is an
important growth factor that affects follicular proliferation and differentiation as well as the hair growth cycle. IGF-1R may play a key role in the regulation of hair growth and alopecia.8 VDR gene is expressed in the cyclic regeneration of the hair follicle.9-10
receptor (VDR) mutations in humans and mice cause alopecia.11-12 FGFR2 plays an essential role in the proliferation of epidermal cells.13-14
It is
associated with hair thickness in Asian populations.15 By over-expressing these growth factors
of the hair follicle, the natural extract stimulates follicle metabolism and could help to prevent alopecia.
Action on the fiber The hair fiber is composed of three layers: cuticle, cortex and medulla that can act separately or as a unit. The cuticle with overlapping scales limits friction between hair fibers and provides sensory and shine characteristics. It encircles the cortex, the major part of the hair mass (75%), responsible for the mechanical strength and pigment of the hair. The central medulla
May 2020 D0 Control Active 2%
D15
D15
Vitamin D
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