WAXES & BUTTERS 79
Why formulators and marketers love butters
n Kristie Ford – Hallstar, US Shea Butter.
The story of aesthetic butters mirrors in many ways the evolution of cosmetic product development over the years. Our customers have always needed ingredients that work well in formulations. But they are also now looking for natural sourcing, functional benefits, and industry trend alignment. Butters are proving to be well- suited to these multiple objectives. Hallstar’s personal butters story began with its acquisition of Biochemica®
in 2011.
A premium, naturally-derived butter and oils pioneer, Biochemica had already established a broad portfolio of butters obtained through a patented cold extraction process and featuring citrus fruits, cocoa, aloe, avocado, pomegranate and other ingredients. The recognizable, popular ingredient sources of these products continue to support compelling natural product claims and provide consumers with pleasing natural scents and multifunctional, healing properties. Butters’ ingredient-specific
characteristics enable companies to meet two distinct market demands. Beauty consumers will always desire the core properties butters bring to personal care but they are also searching for goods tailored specifically to their evolving lifestyles. To develop products that cater to
May 2020 Butters also make the benefits of the
this second, less tangible desire, companies need to get inside the minds of consumers and understand what they will want from their personal care products today, tomorrow and beyond. Hallstar is committed to incorporating its
trends research into a next-generation of all- natural butters that can also address the sourcing and functionality preferences consumers have come to expect. Our investment in developing new Biochemica products – like 2018’s Turmeric Butter and our latest CBD Hemp Butter - is based in our belief that butter-based products will continue to deliver the right stuff for our customers.
Formulary benefits Cosmetic butters consist of solid fats and liquid oils in proportions which result in a deformable solid product at room temperature, making them excellent emollients, softeners and protecting agents for skin. Always popular with formulators and consumers, soothing butters add immediate sensory appeal to skin care products. They are more stable than oil-based ingredients and have longer shelf-lives. The outstanding aesthetics and spreadability of these butters are often deciding factors in overall product preference.
underlying ingredients, including functional performance and natural fragrances, available to formulators. Working with lemon oil, for example, facilitates the incorporation of the free radical scavenger limonene into personal care products, while the use of coffee oil results in butters that deliver caffeine, frequently found in anti- cellulite products, to the skin.
From nature-derived to all-natural The growing popularity of butters is also the story of a market seeking natural solutions. Consumers are paying more attention than ever to what they put inside their bodies and on their skin. Demand has sharply increased for all-natural, sustainably and ethically sourced products. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda, consumers are taking a holistic approach to wellness and viewing all the products they use through this lens. Man-made butters, including many of
Hallstar’s early non-organic Biochemica products, were originally developed with hydrogenated vegetable oils. Given the large number of hydrogenated oils on the market at the time, and the differing degrees to which they were hydrogenated, a virtually unlimited palette was available to
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
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