36 PRESERVATIVES


meanwhile, the figures are slightly lower, at 6.9%. The Asian markets (Japan, India, China) are less active in this field, witnessing variations of around 2-5%. As the ‘free- from’ claim is establishing itself as a purchasing criterion in other regions, European brands have been having to do without it since 1 July 2019 if they want to comply with the application of the Technical Document on Cosmetics Claims issued by the European Commission on 3 July 2017. “This represents a very important paradigm shift, and the brands concerned must now instead focus on claims based on the positive effects of the ingredients rather than on the use of ‘free-from’ claims that tend to denigrate certain categories of ingredients,” explains Lucile Manteau. This will be no easy task, but the product will then be purchased for what it does contain rather than what it does not.


Could we see the widespread adoption of the Clean Beauty concept? Could Clean Beauty become the new benchmark in this respect? Selected by distributors, showcased by influencers and based on the current basic requirements associated with the need for safety for the skin and environmental friendliness, ethics, sustainable consumption, and transparency, Clean Beauty appears to be the new Holy Grail for the committed consumer. “Clean Beauty incorporates factors that have existed individually for a long time but that are combined now under a single and easily comprehensible name. What is new, however, is the importance attached to the distribution networks that select the products that fall into this category,” explains Symrise marketing project manager, Nathalie Neirynck. This Clean movement involves products that have a controlled impact on both health and the environment, going beyond merely natural and organic cosmetics alone, which have been achieving good levels of growth for several years now. As far as Symrise is concerned, the pillars of Clean Beauty are skin and environmental safety, sustainable development, ethics, and transparency. According to Ecovia Intelligence,6


global sales


of natural and organic cosmetics increased from almost nothing to $10.2 billion between 2002 and 2017, with the market growing by 18.7% in France in 2018 and by 7% in Europe. These figures would appear to indicate that the Clean Beauty concept is set to be a great success that should, according to the American beauty magazine Allure,7


reach a market of $22


billion. The Clean movement has become more widespread since the concept emerged in 2015 with American distributor Credo, when, for the first time, it referred to cosmetics containing ingredients that its panel of experts had deemed ‘safe’. As far as the experts at Mintel are concerned, “Clean is the new


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


green, with over a third of consumers now interested in the concept”. Walmart, for its part, has been offering Clean and affordable beauty products since September 2019 with the Earth to Skin range, while Sephora in the United States has been displaying its ‘Clean at Sephora’ label on a selection of products that are free of the 54 ingredients that the brand has deemed negative since 2018. In France, Carrefour opened its Sources store dedicated to Clean Beauty in Paris’ Marais district in October 2019. “We have banned 75 controversial ingredients available on the market from the products we offer consumers,” explains Valentine Fournier of the Carrefour Group’s purchasing department. “Sources basically aims to reassure consumers”, adds Pascal Clouzard, executive director for France at Carrefour. Symrise Consumer Market Insight senior manager, Julie Chamla, also recognizes how important an issue this is: “Our Ingredients Perception Exploration Study8


showed that consumers


needed reassurance when it came to the friendliness of products to both their skin and the planet in a context where more and more consumers are categorizing themselves as having sensitive skin”.


Multifunctional ingredients more relevant than ever Preservatives are some of the most debated ingredients. They are the ones “people love to hate but would actually hate not to have.” (Mia Davis, Credo) They have been called a “whipping boy”, but also “unsung heroes” (Christine Esposito, Happi). Traditional preservatives have been scrutinized, criticized, and decried. More and more formulators and consumers recognize today that protecting products does not have to be an unwanted compromise anymore. In fact, certain multifunctionals can bring desired benefits to the formulation, and they are the true “heroes” of product protection. Heroes


with a twist: they can multitask. As formulating Clean Beauty products requires Clean INCI lists, the use of Symrise’s multifunctional ingredients offers a number of advantages which include the optimization of the ingredient listing. Modern product protection is a completely new way of thinking about formulation. It involves good manufacturing practices, appropriate packaging, low water activity and the intelligent use of preservatives, multifunctional ingredients, and chelating agents. There is, after all, more to the formulation impact of newer ingredient chemistries than simply preserving the product. “We at Symrise believe that Modern Product Protection should come into play at the start of the formulation conception stage. While conventional preservatives were historically added at the final stage of the formulation process and at low levels, Modern Product Protection ingredients need to be considered from the formulation inception stage because of their unique physico-chemical characteristics. This is a new field of discovery for formulators - finding the best molecules that offer the best benefits in terms of the efficacy and aesthetics of a formula. We see this as a gateway to fresh opportunities, because we are not talking merely about preservation but about the additional advantages that Symrise’s chemistries bring to a formulation,” explains Symrise director of Global Product Management, Yohanna Sander. Since the launch of Hydrolite 5


(pentylene glycol) in 1992, Symrise has demonstrated that 1,2-alkanediols have major sensory and texturizing qualities as well as skin benefits. Studies have shown that 1,2-alkanediols moisturize the skin, improve the bioavailability of active ingredients, ensure better pigment dispersion, and give the product a velvety- soft feel. “Multifunctional ingredients comprising 1,2-pentanediol (Hydrolite 5), 1,2-hexanediol (Hydrolite 6), 1,2 octanediol (Hydrolite CG), and decylene glycol (SymClariol®


) offer the dual advantage of


being able to protect the skin thanks to their biological properties whilst also further protecting formulas against microbial contamination,” explains Yohanna Sander. Beyond its emulsifier and active


(hydration, deodorant...) properties, SymLite®


SymSave® G8 (Glyceryl Caprylate) offers


100% natural protection. Another multifunctional ingredient, H (Hydroxyacetophenone), has


excellent antioxidant capabilities, acts as a soothing agent, and simultaneously protects formulations from unwanted organisms, especially yeasts and moulds, which tend to be much more resilient to inactivation. The multiple properties of multifunctionals mean that they are perfectly suited to


May 2020


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