54 HAIR CARE


was reached within 28 days for Polyurethane-34. According to OECD 302 standard, the polymer is non-persistent in the environment. In short, these biodegradability results set Polyurethane-34 apart from other film-formers of petroleum origin that show mainly no degradation, and therefore could potentially accumulate in the environment.


Multifunctional performance The structure of Polyurethane-34 is responsible for its excellent film-forming ability. A continuous smooth film can be readily made at room temperature without the need for a plasticizer. This film has a few features that are highly sought by cosmetic formulators: l Super flexible and elastic l Substantive to skin and hair l Soft to touch, leaving hair and skin with natural after-feel


l Water and heat resistant We want to demonstrate how each


of these film characteristics imparts multiple benefits to hair treatment/styling products.


Style retention The highly elastic nature of Polyurethane-34 film directly results in style retention or so called shape memory effect. The hair treated with styling products containing a PUR film-former tends to retain its shape longer despite of mechanical manipulations. The elasticity of the film is specifically responsible for creating touchable style and bouncy curls, and an overall natural look. Shape retention was tested by Dry


Combing Test. Results were compared between Polyurethane-34, competitive polyurethane and acrylate copolymer. Curl retention measurements after Dry Combing are shown in Figure 2.


0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0


n Acrylates copolymer n Competitive Polyurethane n Polyurethane-34


90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


10 20 Figure 2: Curl retention measurement after dry combing. Initial curl Acrylate Copolymer


Competitive Polyurethane


Polyurethane-34 30 Times of comb-through 40


Figure 3: Results after 40 times dry comb-through. Curls pictures were taken after 40 times


dry combing and shown in Figure 3. Polyurethane-34 exhibits superior


shape retention after dry combing in comparison to acrylates copolymer and competitive polyurethane.


0.53 0.36 0.32 0.32 0.25 0.25


Sensorial characteristics Polyurethane-34 forms a very soft and flexible film on hair. To provide a quantitative comparison of its unique film feature, Omega Loop Dynamic Mechanical Analysis was performed on hair fibers, treated respectively with conventional hair fixative polymers versus Polyurethane-34. Aqueous polymeric solutions (2 wt. % active solids) were applied at the concentration of 150 µg per hair loop. Texture Analyser Model TA-XT2 (Texture Technologies Corporation) was used with a load sensitivity 0.1g, under 50 % R.H., 20°C. Ten consecutive deformation cycles were performed, with 4 mm deformation each (25% reduction in loop height), E10/E1 ratio of the maximum modulus in 10th deformation to the maximum modulus in the 1st. Deformation is the measure of polymeric film flexibility. 3


Results are shown in Figure 4. Notably, Polyurethane-34 shows the


Polyurethane-34 VP/VA Copolymer (60/40)


PVP K-90) Figure 4:Omega loops dynamic mechanical analysis. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA VA Copolymer Acrylate Copolymer


Competitive Polyurethane


highest flexibility measure when compared with conventional hair fixative technologies. Mechanical properties of the film, including its low Young modulus and high max elongation at break, impart its outstanding sensorial profile. The film quality and flexibility are also


May 2020


E10/E1


Curl Retention %


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