HAIR CARE 57
same formulation without film-former. Lotion containing Polyurethane-34
effectively prevents damage to hair fibers due to the formation of a protective smooth coating on hair fiber. After 1000 brush strokes, up to 30% fewer broken fibers were collected when compared to the base formulation without film former (Fig 11). This result showed that Polyurethane-34
has an effective detangling ability which helps prevent breakage. Fewer snags and less entanglement on hair results in less damage during the grooming process.
Conclusion Aqueous polyurethane technology from Covestro allows the development of film- formers for cosmetic applications with better biodegradation than the state-of-the-art film formers, while maintaining high performance. Polyurethane-34 (Baycusan®
C
1001, Covestro) degrades up to 60% over 28 days according OECD 301 guideline (10 day window not met), whereas polyacrylate- based polymers are mostly not biodegradable. It exhibits excellent styling and conditioning properties such as outstanding high humidity resistance, frizz control, hair manageability and soft natural feel. Baycusan®
C 1001 allows for significant
protection against breakage which is important for consumers with brittle textured hair. Baycusan®
C 1001 offers cosmetic
formulators multifunctional high performance combined with excellent sustainability profile. Another way to improve the sustainability
of hair care formulation is to increase the naturality of ingredients. Covestro proposes with the Baycusan®
eco product line
polyurethane film-formers containing more than wt. 50%, such as Baycusan®
(INCI name Polyurethane-93) for hair care applications.
-37.8
Acrylate copolymer 2 Acrylate copolymer 1
-9 -10.8 -50 -40 -30 -20 -10 0 12.3 16.6 Competitive PUR Dimethicone 10 % combing force change compared to untreated hair
Figure 10: Change in combing force between untreated and treated hair (at hair tip).
May 2020
Figure 11: Average number of broken fibers after 1,000 strokes repeated combing for hair treated with a Polyurethane-34 lotion compared to hair treated with only the base formulation.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA 20
eco E 1000 PC
-10 pH
Polyquaternium-39 42
VP/VA Copolymer 6.7
Polyquaternium-68 5.1
Polyurethane-34 7.7
Figure 9: Effect of the polymer on change in the coefficient of friction on damaged hair.
References 1 Pottié L. Future of Synthetic Polymers in Cosmetics, SÖFW Journal 2019 11
2 Pottié L. Responsible hair care with polyurethanes film formers, Household and
18.00 16.00 14.00 12.00 10.00 8.00 6.00 4.00 2.00 0.00
Personal Care Today 2019 14(6): 54-56
3 Jachowic J, McMullen R. Mechanical analysis of elasticity and flexibility of virgin and polymer- treated hair fiber assemblies, Journal of Cosmetic Science 2002 53(6): 345-361
15.38 30% decrease 10.75 -5 -5.6% 10 20 16.8% 15.0% 15 After product treatment After 24h at 90% relative humidity and 23ºC Figure 8: Frizz control with Polyurethane-34 lotion vs Control.
5 0 0%
Base formulation
With polyurethane-34
variation of friction versus untreated % Hair surface smoothness
Average number of broken fibers after 1,000 strokes
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