50 NATURALS
regular. Further, collagen I and III fibers appear denser and finer textured than in the untreated control (not shown).
In vivo activity: plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides improve age-related properties of facial skin We studied the rejuvenating effects of plant- derived, matrikine-like peptides on mature facial skin with two approaches: First, in a placebo-controlled, instrumental assessment we focused on age-related, biomechanical parameters (Fig 3). And in a second approach, we analyzed skin topography (Fig 4).
Summary: Action of plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides In chronological aging, the capacity of fibroblasts to secret extracellular matrix protein declines. At the same time, elastin and collagen loose organization. This compromises skin elasticity and resilience and finally contributes to the appearance of wrinkles. Plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides
improve the synthesis, organization and distribution of elastic fibers in the extracellular matrix (ECM) and contribute to a more youthful appearance of the skin.
PC a
References 1 Aldag C, et al. Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2016; 9, 411-419.
2 Maibach HI. Textbook of ageing skin, Springer-Verlag (2017).
3 Ricard-Blum S, Salza R. Matricryptins and matrikines: biologically active fragments of the extracellular matrix. Exp Dermatol 2014; 23: 457-463.
4 Wells JM, et al. MMP generated matrikines. Matrix Biol 2015; 44-46: 122-129.
5 Farwick M. et al. Bioactive tetrapeptide GEKG boosts extracellular matrix formation: in vitro and in vivo molecular and clinical proof. Exp Dermatol 2011; 20: 602-604.
6 Maquart FX, et al. Matrikines in the regulation of extracellular matrix degradation. Biochimie 2005; 87: 353-360.
7 Maquart FX, et al. Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L- lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Lett 1988; 238: 343-346.
8 Pickart L. The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. J Biomater Sci Polym Ed 2008; 19: 969-988.
9 Katayama K, et al. A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem 1993; 268: 9941-9944.
10 Löffler G. Biochemie und Pathobiochemie, Springer-Verlag (2013).
11 Załuski D, et al. Bioactive compounds and antioxidative, antileukemic and anti-MMPs activity of Eleutherococcus species cultivated in Poland. Nat Prod Commun 2012; 7, 1483-1486.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA c
Improvement of Sagging Volume I AEVA Fringe Projection System *
20 15 10 5 0
+8% +15% b
Improvement of Wrinkle Count I AEVA Fringe Projection System *
20
10-10 0
-10 Placebo PhytoCodine® 2%
+19% ***
+15%
200 100 0
-100 -200
Pronounced wrinkles Less wrinkles
20 15 10 5 0
Improvement of Roughness I AEVA Fringe Projection System *
***D13 +9%
+11%
3 2 1 0
-1 -2 -3
Placebo 2% PhytoCodine® Rough areas Smoothed surface a 30 20 +15% 10 0 Placebo PhytoCodine® b
60 40 20 0
Improvement of Dermal Elasticity I Cutometer Curve - Biomechanical Resistance to Skin Elevation and Relaxation *
*** +15% *** +45% 2%
Epidermis Dermis
Dark zones represent low density Low-density dermis High-density dermis
Improvement of Dermal Density I Subepidermal Low-Echogenic Band (SLEB) *
**
Placebo
PhytoCodine®
Figure 3: Plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides improve age-related biomechanical parameters of facial skin. 21 women applied a cream with 2 % of the active ingredient to one hemiface and a placebo cream to the other for 56 days. (A) The active ingredient increases sub-epidermal density. Images show changes in subepidermal density (light areas = high skin density, dark areas low density), measured with a skin ultrasonography ultrasound system Dermascan C. (B) The active ingredient increases elasticity and firmness. Elasticity (ratio between the ability of returning to the original position (Ua) and the maximal amplitude of elevation (Uf)) was measured with a Cutometer®
dual MPA
580. N = 21; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test vs. baseline and between treatments; * = p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.01; *** = p <0.001.
2%
Placebo
PhytoCodine®
Figure 4: Plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides improve the topography of facial skin. In a placebo- controlled consumer test, 21 women with mixed to dry skin applied a cream containing 2 % of the active ingredient to one hemiface and a placebo cream to the other hemiface for 56 days. (A) The active ingredient reduces skin roughness. Representative images where obtained by Stereo-Fringe projection system AEVA®
images obtained by Stereo-Fringe projection system AEVA® effect on facial skin. Representative images obtained by Stereo-Fringe projection system AEVA®
. (B) The active ingredient reduces the quantity of wrinkles. Representative . (C) The active ingredient has a lifting .
N = 21; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test vs. baseline and between treatments; * = p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.01; *** = p < 0.001.
May 2020
2%
Sagging cheeks
Reduced sagging
Reduction of Wrinkles % Reduction Sagging Volume % Reduction of Roughness %
Increase of Elasticity %
Increase of Density %
Skin Topography (μm)
Skin Topography (mm)
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