72 WAXES & BUTTERS
improve the skin’s appearance throughout the body. JD Jojoba Butter V is oil
miscible, free of preservatives, coloring agents and is completely natural and Vegan. The cosmetic market is
stimulated by an infinite variety of consumer aspirations and is fed by innovation. In today’s world, changes happen due to the snapshot fashion and Instagram visuals that stimulate a fast lifestyle. The cosmetic experts must innovate constantly, according to the desires and expectations of a zapper generation always looking for novelties. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base from Natura-Tec has been designed and developed with this concept in mind in order to satisfy these new trends. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base is a natural solution to the creativity and effectiveness required by the new generation of modern cosmetics. The ingredient from Natura-Tec is a
100% natural derived base, Cosmos- approved, Palm-free and vegan compliant. This multifunctional balm has been developed to facilitate the formulation work and improve the cost effectiveness of the finished product. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base is a texturizing agent and has a butter like consistency with high malleability and softness while having a high melting point at around 73°C. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base gives softness and smoothness to formulations with a silicone feel at application, a good absorption and a velvety finish. In emulsion systems, Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base gives high consistency, non-sticky and non-greasy after-feel and co-emulsifying properties helping to stabilize emulsions thanks to its specific natural crystal network. In anhydrous formulations, it has the ability to bind up to 15% of water and has been tested with a wide range of oils and presents an excellent compatibility with natural and derived natural oils.
Waxes SeraSoft from KCC Beauty is a versatile range of soft silicone waxes to offer the gentle care a sun, skin or lip care product needs, without greasy after effects. The SeraSoft range has many things to offer including moisturizing qualities, along with unique feel and textures. The range includes KCC Beauty
SeraSoft SW 70-A, a soft wax alkylated PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Jojoba oil and seeds.
silicone. The alkyl modification makes this type of silicone more compatible with organic ingredients. It enhances softness and generates high gloss in various formulations. Due to its composition, this material is
favorably used in sun care, where it melts onto the skin for an excellent feel while improving the spread of actives, thus potentially improving the SPF of a sun care formulation. In addition to this, SeraSoft SW 70-A’s compatibility with other organic materials gives it many uses in other skin care products. In color cosmetics, it offers the additional benefit of excellent shine from its high refractive index. SeraSoft SW 70-A is also a good foam booster for surfactant formulations. Recognizing the need for flexible
ingredients that meet the expectations of worldwide consumers, Gattefossé has developed an innovative sensorial emulsifier. Based on a patented technology which transforms and functionalizes natural waxes, this ingredient auto-adapts to the environment in which we live, bringing guaranteed pleasure to all users. Emulium Mellifera MB forms a soft and
ultra-light film on the skin’s surface, providing a pleasurable touch and protection from seasonal variations. It is created from natural ingredients using green chemistry. Beeswax and jojoba wax are reacted with vegetable polyglycerol to change the texture into a soft and
homogeneous butter that possesses active properties. This functionalized wax butter is then combined with polyglyceryl-6 distearate and cetyl alcohol, in a precise composition designed to optimize emulsification and texturizing capacity. Emulium Mellifera MB brings intense
immediate and long-lasting moisturization to the skin: +43% after 30 minutes, + 40% after 8 hours. After only one application, 100% of panelists confirm their skin is visibly better hydrated. A 100% natural texturizing agent based
on a complex of waxes functionalized with polyglycerol, Acticire MB, also from Gattefossé, forms a soft, smooth film that protects the skin from dehydration and ensures a comfortable skin-feel throughout the day. Natural waxes have interesting cosmetic
properties: they form a barrier against water loss, they come from renewable sources and offer excellent safety profile. But they also have disadvantages. With the exception of jojoba wax, they demonstrate low sensoriality and poor compatibility with cosmetic emulsions. Vegetable waxes protect the skin
however, in their native form, they are difficult to formulate in emulsions. They also present a rough after-feel on the skin. In formulation, Acticire MB forms small and rounder crystals that create a smooth film on the skin, leading to a softer touch. To obtain a functional and sensorial
texturizing agent, Gattefossé has developed a patented technology of transesterification of solid and liquid waxes with polyglycerol. Acticire MB is perfectly stable in emulsions, and presents new sensorial advantages.
PC May 2020
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