HAIR CARE 59
Biodegradable emollients from the circular economy
n Alessandra Adduci, Stefania Zanzottera - Roelmi HPC, Italy
What is sustainability? In the past, it has been defined as the method used by biological systems to improve their resistance and production. Nevertheless, the 21st-century definition goes far beyond these narrow parameters. In fact, today sustainability is a balancing
act. It takes into consideration the present and the future: as indicated in the Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development, sustainability meets the needs of the present without compromising the wellbeing of future generations. The topic of sustainability is evolving, linked
to the interdependence of global markets and growing consumer awareness. As we know, companies and customers need metrics by which to make decisions and several customers have posited the question of how to assess sustainability in raw materials, and their own impact on the environment. Economic growth must take into account the availability of resources offered by our planet and the rate at which they are renewed. Over-exploitation of stock today will fall on future generations. It is therefore vital to rethink our economic models to make them more compatible with the regeneration rhythms of the planet’s resources. Availability and secure access to natural
resources of the planet represent the indispensable basis for human life and socio- economic wellbeing of our society. However, in a globalized world in which the estimated population growth is estimated to reach 9 billion people by 2050, the continued growth of demand and competition related to limited resources jeopardizes security of supply of the resources themselves. As result, an increased pressure and effects on the environment generate a crisis for the sustainability of existing production models and consumption (UN DESA, 2015). The cosmetic market should take into
account its performances to align in a positive manner in order to achieve the challenging goals of sustainability. One example is the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations 2030 Agenda (UN, 2015). Concerted efforts are called for to build an inclusive, sustainable and resilient future for the people
May 2020 Abstract
From the cradle of civilization, to performing cosmetic hair care
ingredients.The present paper aims to demonstrate the concrete efforts in pursuing circular economy models to develop cosmetic ingredients. Primary focus on the capacity in promoting sustainable methods of production through the efficient use of resources deriving from other supply chains (non-edible fractions from the food chain). Two main categories have been investigated: biodegradable esters and botanical extracts from the Mediterranean basin.
n Shampoo with silicones n Shampoo with EMotion Light
1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0
No treatment
Bleaching treatment
Product treatment
Figure 1: Combing effect in shampoo treatment. shampoo containing silicones (INCI: Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Steareth-4, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin) Shampoo containing the tested product (INCI: Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Tripelargonin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Steareth-4, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin).
and the planet. To reach this goal, governments, businesses and civil society together with the United Nations have started to mobilize actions to achieve the Sustainable Development Agenda by 2030. Universal, inclusive and indivisible, the Agenda calls for action by all countries to improve the lives of people everywhere. Sustainable approaches, innovation, local
organic agriculture and maintenance of biological diversity in a sustainable supply chain and in the global economic context, were taken into consideration within a project developed by Roelmi HPC, the inventor of “NIP®
Program”,
who are strictly committed to designing, developing and producing active and functional ingredients for Health & Personal Care markets. Following this program, two main categories have been investigated:
biodegradable emollients and a new vision of botanicals from the Mediterranean basin.
Focus on a new category of emollient agents Esters are one of most widely employed ingredients in cosmetic formulations for their remarkable emollient capacity. Nowadays, several categories of them are under investigation because of their food chain origin. Growing interest in different raw materials sources, through a controlled supply chain aiming to minimize the impact on the environment, is now challenging the market to find a reliable opportunity. An industrial plant, completely
converted to “green chemistry” allows the creation of high-purity pelargonic acid (above 98%) from cardoon seed extract, by
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Total work (mJ)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96
