MARINE INGREDIENTS 83
Efficient marine solution to strengthen hair integrity
n Dr Liliane Pellegrini, Dr Max Pellegrini - Gelyma, France
Nowadays, healthy-looking hair is related to an attractive appearance for women as well as men. Hair disorders have a dramatic impact on quality of life and emotional wellbeing. They are fundamentally caused by variations in hair follicle density, size and/or changes in the hair growth cycle as well as by hair loss (alopecia). Alopecia is a major concern in dermatology including different forms, the most common being androgenetic alopecia, in both men (male pattern hair loss) and women (female pattern hair loss). Therefore, such hair disorders must be taken into consideration. Gelyma proposes a smart natural
patented combination designed to consolidate the hair’s integrity with demonstrated actions on the three parts of hair: the follicle, the hair and the scalp.
Material and methods This natural extract includes an extract of the red alga Kappaphycus alvarezii, belonging to the Kingdom Plantae and the order Gigartinales, associated with seawater and vegetable organic glycerin. It offers a very interesting mineral composition due to its content of magnesium (1088 ppm), iron (22 ppm) and zinc (26 ppm). Such a composition may profitably assist with mineral deficiencies known to cause problems with hair growth and scalp vitality. For demonstrating how this extract
works, different methods have been used, especially ex vivo study, gene expression analysis, scanning electron microscopy observations and clinical studies. The active has been tested at 2% in each study.
Hair follicle survival Hair follicles have been micro dissected from a human skin fragment (face lift, female donor, 66 years old) then cultured in 24-well plates (2 follicles/well) in a culture medium for 20 days. Their survival has been estimated by morphological observations of the hair bulbs and counting the number of apoptotic bulbs versus the total number of bulbs at D13, D15, D17 and D20.
May 2020 n Control n Active 2% 120 100 100 100 80 60 42 33 40 20 8 0 D13 Figure 1: Effect on hair follicle survival.
Gene expression analysis This gene expression analysis has been performed on hair follicles in culture (E William’s medium supplemented with penicillin 50 U/ml, streptomycin 50 ug/ml, L-glutamine 2 mM, insulin 10 ug/ml, hydrocortisone 0.004 ug/ml) containing the active or not (control). After 72 hours’ incubation under the culture conditions: 37°C and 5% CO2
, the hair follicles are
washed in PBS solution, then immediately frozen in liquid nitrogen and stored at -80°C for RNA extraction. The expression of markers selected for their importance in follicle physiology has been analyzed using RT-qPCR method on total RNA extracted from the follicles of each experimental conditions in duplicate (n=2).
Observations by scanning electron microscopy of the hair cuticle The cuticle of dry hair has been observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). For the second experiment, dry hair has been soaked in a solution of chlorine (0.03% Cl)
for 1 minute, dried, then treated with 2% active in water. The observations by SEM have been performed 24h after experiment.
Clinical studies Two clinical studies have been performed on two groups of 22 female/male subjects each over 18 years old presenting scalp redness or visible irritation. After a 14-day washout period using a neutral shampoo, the active at 2% in a gel and placebo were applied over the scalp and hair, with a gentle massage once a day, during 28 days, according to the assigned group. The first clinical study concerned the determination in vivo of the hair shine increase efficacy by using a Glossymeter®
GL 200 (Courage +
Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany) conducted in triplicate at D0 and D28 comparatively to baseline and placebo. The second clinical study concerned the score evaluation of the scalp soothing efficacy.
Results and discussion Results prove that the natural extract acts as
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA D17 D20 33
% apoptosis
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