60 HAIR CARE


local cultivar in marginal lands, as a starting point for the development of high-quality esters. Targeting the cosmetic market,


EMotion Esters are a sustainable choice for formulators. Biodegradable esters with surprising capacities: outstanding properties in terms of solubilization and dispersion of UV filters and pigments, strong ability in conferring color intensity, homogeneity tint, good texture, bright and glossy effect to the formulation. EMotion Silky (INCI: Neopentyl Glycol


Dipelargonate): an emollient ester with a dry, silky, smooth and evanescent touch, characterized by easy spreading qualities, good and quick absorption. It can be used instead of other dry and silky-touch esters, having the same final performance. Esters with similar characteristics available on the market are: isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and ethylhexyl palmitate. It has as a benchmark in terms of performance the silicone cyclopentasiloxane. Thanks to these features, EMotion Silky is particularly suggested for skin care, sun care and hair care products. EMotion Light (INCI: Tripelargonin): an


emollient ester with a light and soft touch, characterized by high spreadability and good absorption rate. It can be used in formulation instead of other emollient esters without leaving any greasy sensation on the skin. Esters with similar characteristics available on the market are caprylic/capric triglyceride (MCT) and isopropyl palmitate. Thanks to its light touch, EMotion Light is indicated for skin, sun and hair care as in makeup products.


Development: evidence of efficacy How to assess the esters’ activity in hair care? You can begin to answer this question by observing the chemical-physical parameters such as density, viscosity and the refractive index. The measurement of these values allows, from the theoretical point of view, to predict what performance of the cosmetic formula containing the ester will be. There is a correspondence between


density and weightlessness of the ester. The lower the density, the greater will be the feeling of lightness that the ester will give to the hair. A low viscosity helps the application of the product on the hair. Starting from an ester with a refractive index closer to the hair in a normal state of health, makes it able to give brightness to the damaged hair. By comparison with the silicones on the


market, our EMotion Esters show values of density, viscosity and refractive index comparable and in some cases even better.


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA n Conditioner with silicones n Conditioner with EMotion Light 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 No treatment Bleaching treatment Product treatment


Figure 2: Combing effect in rinse-off conditioner treatment. shampoo containing silicones (INCI: Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin)Shampoo containing the tested product (INCI: Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Tripelargonin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin).


An ex vivo study, aiming to assess the


combing properties of EMotion Esters in comparison to silicones was carried out on natural hair locks and the products' effects were instrumentally evaluated by means of DIA-STRON fibra.one in an independent study. Commercially available human brown hair locks were used for the study according to the following study design: l 3 hair locks are treated with shampoo containing silicones


l 3 hair locks are treated with shampoo containing the tested product


l 3 hair locks are treated with conditioner containing silicones


l 3 hair locks are treated with conditioner containing the tested product Hair locks were damaged with a


bleaching treatment (30 minutes exposure to 20 volumes hydrogen peroxide + 50 minutes exposure to 30 volumes hydrogen peroxide) with commercially available products (dott. Solari Cosmetics Oxidizer in perfumed cream; HP Firenze Bleaching free-hand). Three-gram brown hair locks were


prepared using an analytical balance (Kern ALJ 160-4NM, Kern & Sohn GmbH). After preparation, hair locks are washed as follows: i) hair lock was made wet for 10 seconds using tap water, ii) 1 ml of neutral shampoo was distributed all over the hair lock length using a graduated pipette, iii) the neutral shampoo was rubbed all over the hair lock length during 20 seconds, iv) hair lock was rinsed during 30 seconds using tap water, v) hair lock is dabbed with a paper towel and dried using a hair dryer. After bleaching treatment, a fixed


amount of test products were distributed all over the hair lock length as follows: 1 ml of the test product on wet hair lock treated with shampoo formulas (benchmark and tested product); 500 mg of the test


product on wet hair lock treated with conditioner formulas. The evaluation of hair locks’ combing


properties was carried out using DIA-STRON fibra.one, a multi-functional tress testing instrument which objectively evaluates combing properties of the hair locks before and after product application. In this study the total work parameter, calculated as the area under the curve (AUC) and expressed in mJ, is evaluated. This parameter represents the total work carried out by the comb to comb the whole hair lock. Figure 1 reports the mean data of the Total


work parameter obtained for each study product. The data reported here are the mean values calculated on 8 repeated measurements. Data are expressed as mJ. In brackets the % variations vs basal are reported. In shampoo treatment, comparable results


performed by cosmetic rinse-off formulas containing Tripelargonin are shown in respect to silicone-based formulas. In conditioner treatment, it is possible to see that the total work variation to comb the hair is lower for Tripelargonin (143.1%) formula compared to silicone-based conditioner formula (187.4%). An internal panel of 20 volunteers has


tested two different cosmetic formulations to evaluate the sensorial feelings of biodegradable emollients toward a benchmark: l A hair serum containing 2% Tripelargonin has been compared versus the same formulation containing the same dosage of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.


l A hair serum containing 2% Neopentyl Glycol Dipelargonate has been compared versus the same formulation containing the same dosage of Isononyl Isononanoate. Volunteers positively score the product pointing out: the higher softness sensation,


May 2020


Total work (mJ)


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