56 HAIR CARE
showed flat line of zero biodegradability rate within 28 days. Besides high humidity curl retention,
frizz control is another highly desired performance characteristic in hair products. Hydrophobic nature of the Polyurethane-34 film effectively prevents an increase of hair volume under humidity. To demonstrate frizz control, a
mannequin head with textured hair, kinky curls type 4C, was treated with a biodegradable hair conditioning and styling lotion containing Polyurethane-34 (Table 1). Half of the head was treated with a commercial benchmark lotion for comparison. One dollop of the product was applied on wet hair on the half head, styled with fingers and dried at ambient temperature for 60 min. Mannequin head was then placed into a humidity chamber at 90% relative humidity and 23°C for 24h. In the face-on picture, the lotion with
Polyurethane-34 was applied on the left side of the head. The right side was treated with Carol’s Daughter®
Hair Milk,
a leave-in moisturizer that prevents frizz. Polyurethane -34 lotion provides effective curl definition and frizz control, with smooth soft feel on hair (Fig 7). In Figure 8, right side facing the
mannequin head was treated with lotion containing Polyurethane-34 (at 2 wt. % active). The left side had the same formulation base without a film-former. One dollop of the lotion was applied on wet hair and evenly distributed with fingers and a comb. The hair was left to air dry for an hour before the mannequin heads were placed into humidity chamber for 24h at 90 % relative humidity and 23°C. Curl definition is better and volume is
lower on the right half of the head (Polyurethane-34) than on the left side (base without polymer) after 24h at 90 % relative humidity and 23°C.
Table 1: Biodegradable hair conditioning and styling lotion. Ingredients
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Triheptanoin
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Cetearyl Alcohol Glycerin
Succinoglycan
Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol Aqua
Tocopheryl Acetate Polyurethane-34 Total
Conditioning effect Smooth manageable hair Polymers in the formulation are responsible for forming a smooth protective film on hair fibers to keep hair manageable and soft. Film smoothness correlates with reduction of coefficient of friction measured from tip to the root. Typically coefficient of friction of hair treated with conditioning polymer is expected to be lower than coefficient of friction of damaged hair. Coefficient of friction of hair treated with
Polyurethane-34 and three conventional benchmark polymers respectively was compared. A Dia-Stron MTT175 equipped with friction accessory was used for testing Euro bleached hair treated with polymeric aqueous solution (2% solids) from tip to the root of the hair (Test Conditions: Rate at 200mm/min, weight- 200g). Change of the coefficient of friction is
shown in Figure 9. Polyurethane-34 imparts the biggest
reduction in the coefficient of friction. This quantitative result correlates well with the sensory properties of the polymer: hair feels
% by wt. 1.00 2.00
2.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 5.00 0.70 3.50
77.30 0.50 2.00
100.00
soft and silky because of the smooth film formed on hair.
Detangling Combing force reduction on the hair tip between untreated and treated hair is usually a good indication of polymer detangling ability. We compared a change in the combing force on the tip of the untreated and hair treated with conventional hair styling polymers. 2 wt. % active polymer in aqueous solution was sprayed 6 times on undamaged Caucasian hair (ca. 1.5 g and 14 cm length). Hair tresses were air dried at 22°C, 55% relative humidity. Each polymer was tested on five hair tresses, each combed 15 times per tress. Results are shown in Figure 10. Polyurethane-34 imparts a strong
detangling effect, making it easier to comb from root to end.
Resistance to break Repeated Grooming Test was performed on the hair treated with lotion containing 2 wt.% active Polyurethane-34 versus the
Hair after washing and towel drying
After product application before drying at room temperature
Figure 7: Frizz control on textured hair with polyurethane-34 lotion versus commercial benchmark. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA May 2020
After 24h at 90% relative humidity and 23ºC
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