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48 NATURALS


Natural matrikine-like peptides for skin rejuvenation


n B.Walzel, T.Shah, B.Senti, U.Bätz and S.Bänziger – Lipoid Kosmetik, Switzerland


Our skin is an integrated network of cells that communicate with each other using biological messengers - small molecules that carry information. Cellular signaling and cell-to-cell communication control e.g. inflammation, skin repair, melanogenesis or aging. Examples of signaling messenger molecules in skin are cytokines, neurotransmitters, growth factors, or matrikines, which freely diffuse between cells and transmit their messages, for example by binding to cell surface receptors.1


With age, the activity of


signaling and communication declines. This strongly affects the extracellular matrix impacting skin texture and topography.2


Synthetic matrikines and their use in cosmetics Matrikines are one type of dermal messengers that naturally occur in our skin. Matrikines are short peptides with defined amino acid sequences. Depending on their sequence, matrikines activate intracellular signaling pathways that lead to cellular events, such as cell proliferation, protein synthesis, or matrix formation.3,4 Matrikines promote ECM synthesis.


The extracellular matrix (ECM) consists of a network of interwoven macromolecules that give structure and elasticity to skin. Dermal fibroblasts are the factories of extracellular matrix proteins, producing collagen, elastin, or fibronectin. Matrikines regulate fibroblast activity by binding to specific receptors on their cell surface,


Figure 1: Lipoid Kosmetik’s technology produces natural matrikine-like peptides and makes them available for cosmetic applications. Proteases generate unique sets of short peptides from cedar nut proteins with an ideal average amino- acid chain length of about 4 amino acids, which were analyzed by mass spectrometry, de novo peptide sequencing. Using homology searches - matching original matrikine peptide sequences of our skin with cedar nut peptide sequences – we revealed several matrikine homologs (peptides with very similar sequences). Peptide sequences in the illustration are read from left to right using the amino acid 1-letter code.10


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA May 2020 Abstract


A person’s perceived age is determined by physical traits on face and neck. These traits mostly reflect the integrity of the extracellular matrix, which provides structure, homogeneity and elasticity to skin. Matrikines are dermal messenger peptides that instruct skin cells to reorganize and build


up the extracellular matrix. So far, synthetic matrikines have been used in cosmetics. Now, for the first time, Lipoid-Kosmetik AG investigated and isolated natural matrikines-like peptides from cedar nuts and presents them in a novel anti-aging concentrate: PhytoCodine® Here we show that plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides mimic the activity of matrikines


.


that naturally occur in our skin. Plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides activate the formation of extracellular matrix components, optimize skin structure, and improve age-related properties of mature skin, such as elasticity, density, wrinkles and sagging. Altogether, PhytoCodine®


is the first concentrate of plant-derived, natural matrikine-like


peptides. It reprograms fibroblasts to build up extracellular matrix components characteristic of younger looking skin and thereby directly contributes to a person’s perceived age.


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