80 WAXES & BUTTERS
engineer exactly the desired butter texture and skin-feel, all the while maintaining good manufacturability and shelf life. One of the results of increased
consumer demand for natural products has been governmental intervention in hydrogenation market demand due to concerns over trans fats. As the availability of hydrogenated oils diminished, the cosmetic industry was pushed toward creating butters made without them.
Transparent sourcing Sourcing for these all-natural butters can be a serious challenge for suppliers. Product availability and quality, driven by the food industry and weather, must be carefully managed. Raw materials like algae oil, Brazil nut oil, eucalyptus oil, Moroccan argan tree seed oil and marula oil, can sometimes be found in only specific parts of the world and only during harvest seasons, making forecasting critical to a reliable supply of consistent quality products. The supply chain can be very long and complex and will likely include working with farmers in very remote parts of the world, finding
intersection of several important consumer needs – trend monitoring, all-natural ingredients, and delivery of functional benefits within formulations – underpinned the 2018 creation of Hallstar’s Biochemica Turmeric Butter. Biochemica Turmeric Butter was
Turmeric.
sustainable partners with consistent quality and supply and understanding regulations in different countries. Successfully navigating these challenges,
however, becomes a part of the butters value proposition. Sourcing teams are motivated to have their products stand out from the competition. Hallstar, for example, diligently seeks partners that support local communities and materials that are sustainable to our planet.
Capturing trends By monitoring trends in and beyond the personal care sector, companies like Hallstar predict consumer shifts and develop products that drive and capture surges in demand. The
Hallstar’s first ‘next-generation’ butter using solely natural, nonhydrogenated butters and oils to deliver the signature butter benefits of elegant emolliency and substantiated skin moisturisation, while also delivering turmeric’s powerful antioxidant (free radical-scavenging) and anti-inflammatory properties. In 2017, when development of this product started, we had just watched turmeric jump from tenth top selling natural ingredient in the mainstream channel in 2016 to fifth. The beauty market was looking for ways to formulate with this extraordinary spice. Fast- absorbing, non-greasy butters were the perfect platform for turmeric. The new Biochemica CBD Hemp Butter is
the latest in this reimagining of Hallstar butters. Five years ago, while CBD was already being broadly discussed in the healthcare industry, awareness (and pertinent regulations) had not yet materialized for the use of CBD in beauty and personal care product development. Today it is a different story. From small beauty brands to large multinationals, CBD is becoming a popular part of product marketing messages. Since 2017, beauty and personal care product launches with CBD claims have increased 850% - and there have been more CBD beauty product launches in 2019 so far than in all of 2018. CBD Hemp brings the benefits of full-
Formulation 1: CBD hemp-infused cream for dry skin-Formula Number; JH2-50A Phase
INCI name (INN/USAN)
A Water (Aqua) (deionized Glycerin
Disodium EDTA B
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Tocopherol C
Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol
Fragrance (Parfum) PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Biochemica® CBD Hemp Butter Trade name %Wt
Up to 100 3.00 .10
5.00
spectrum hemp extract to the skin in a rich butter base of hydrating craft shea butter and skin-protecting kokum butter. Almost half of this new butter is derived from the hemp plant and contains no isolates, carrier oils, fillers or synthetics. Along with Hallstar’s regulatory knowledge, these properties greatly help formulators navigating the new world of CBD and beauty. Notably, only 5% of CBD Hemp Butter in a
100 g formulation will give you 15mg of cannabidiol (CBD). The naturally-occurring phyto-cannabinoids, terpenes and antioxidants in full spectrum hemp extract provide nourishment to improve skin health and support skin barrier function. Hallstar has already had impressive formulation results with a CBD hemp-infused cream for dry skin (see Formulation 1).
Sensolene® Olivem® Light ET 2020 Biochemica® Vitamin E Natural 3.00 5.00 .50 1.00 a.n.
Conclusion As market demand for products with CBD claims grows rapidly, this new high-quality, transparently-sourced hemp ingredient is a perfect example of the newest chapter in the story of butters and beauty. Cosmetic butter suppliers are energized by the future of all- natural, performant butters and their compelling marketing stories.
PC May 2020
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