HAIR AND SCALP CARE 73
Combining adenosine and silicium for scalp and hair care
Emmanuel Coste, Frederic Maccario, Barbara Morand, Jean-Paul Bliaux, Jessica Guglielmi, Pascale Prouheze, Lionel Valenti, Pierre-Gilles Markioli – Exsymol
Hair and scalp are among the most exposed parts of the human body, continuously subjected to a wide range of external (UV radiation, pollution) and internal (hormonal fluctuations, ageing, stress) aggressions.1
These factors contribute not only to
visible signs of ageing on the skin, such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity, but also to impaired hair quality—manifesting as thinning, reduced strength, and in many cases, hair loss.2 Historically, hair care products have primarily
focused on the hair shaft, aiming to improve cosmetic aspects such as shine, softness, and resistance. However, recent advances in hair science, including the emergence of the skinification trend, have shifted attention toward the scalp and its critical role in hair health. Since hair follicles and sebaceous glands
are rooted in the scalp, maintaining a balanced follicular microenvironment has become a central focus for improving hair growth, regulating sebum production, and preserving scalp integrity. Among the key players in scalp and hair homeostasis are sebocytes and hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC). Sebocytes are located in the sebaceous gland which is attached to the hair follicle wall, just below the infundibulum of every hair (Figure 1). They are responsible for sebum production which, when dysregulated, may lead to conditions such as hyperseborrhea.3,4 HFDPC are fibroblasts located at the heart of
the follicle, in the hair dermal papilla, just below the papillary matrix (Figure 1). They contribute to regulating hair growth via paracrine signaling (secretion of growth factors) and respond to various stimuli.5 Adenosine, a naturally occurring nucleoside, has demonstrated anti-ageing and anti- inflammatory activities. It has recently been shown to stimulate hair growth through mechanisms similar to minoxidil—namely, by enhancing the expression of growth factors such as keratinocyte growth factor (KGF, also named Fibroblast Growth Factor-7 (FGF-7)) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) in HFDPC, via adenosine receptor activation.6,7 Silicium, on the other hand, is known for its
role in extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling and has been shown to strengthen hair fibres and to improve scalp conditions, when used orally or topically.8-10
Based on these complementary properties and aiming to create a multifunctional active capable
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of supporting both hair growth and scalp balance, Exsymol developed Adesilnat (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Extract (and) Adenosine), a novel complex that combines adenosine with orthosilicic acid, a natural silicium derivative isolated from upcycled rice hull.
This study investigates the potential of this silicium–adenosine complex (SiAd) to modulate sebum production while simultaneously promoting hair growth.
Reducing sebum production in both face and scalp The sebaceous gland is a triple layered organ depending on the level of differentiation of its composing sebocytes. In the outermost region, also known as the peripheral zone, sebocytes are proliferating before moving to the maturation zone where they differentiate and accumulate lipids. Finally, the necrotic zone is the innermost
region, where sebocytes in their terminal differentiation stage burst and release their content into the lumen of the sebaceous gland. Sebum production is thus a holocrine secretion.11 In humans, sebum is composed of triglycerides (30-50%), free fatty acids (15-30%), squalene (12-20%), wax esters (26-30%), cholesterol esters (3-6%) and cholesterol (1.5-2.5%).11,12
While it is
required for ensuring an optimal barrier function on the skin and for protecting hair shaft, an overproduction may cause greasy skin and/ or oily hair, and other skin conditions such as
Figure 1: Schematic representation of hair anatomy
acne, folliculitis (inflammation of hair follicles) or seborrheic dermatitis (chronic inflammation causing oily flakes on the scalp). Several molecules such as dihydrotestosterone (DHT), cortisol or growth factors are known sebogenesis inducers, possibly causing hyperseborrhea.11 In order to assess the ability of the SiAd
complex to inhibit sebum overproduction, sebocytes were exposed to a lipogenic mix (LM) combined with DHT in the presence or in the
September 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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